Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[Don_vincentio]

hey there new to the group really very interested in learning more bout these hino whole new breed of truck to me
quite a few of my rollbacks are having lots of issues with the brake lights, the strobe lights , the beacon not working and the fuses are not blown ive overheard conversation by the dealer bout some kinda of computer module in link to it but not sure where or what it looks like??? little help please

Have you checked to see if there's a short in the wire somewhere? I've got a rollback myself, had those problems but usually a faulty wire somewhere. The beacon and flashing lights usually are connected to the switch panel on the inside, but also another box sometimes, it depends on the beacon if I'm not mistaken.

 

[greasytshirt]

There is no module that controls this. It's added by the body builder.

 

[Don_vincentio]

That's what I thought, directly wired to the switch panel.

Secondary air injection (air dryer if I'm not mistaken) malfunction, could this be because of the weather?

 

[greasytshirt]

That's what I thought, directly wired to the switch panel.

Secondary air injection (air dryer if I'm not mistaken) malfunction, could this be because of the weather?

Is this a trouble code description? If so, what's the code?

The air dryer should pop, then purge a decreasing amout of air for 20-30 seconds. If it has a purge problem the purge valve may be replaceable easily. Depends on air dryer model.

 

[Don_vincentio]

Is this a trouble code description? If so, what's the code?

The air dryer should pop, then purge a decreasing amout of air for 20-30 seconds. If it has a purge problem the purge valve may be replaceable easily. Depends on air dryer model.

It's a p0410 code that was the description, dryer purges and pops, I'm thinking maybe because of the cold it's throwing codes that are irrelevant till the truck warms up, used a basic obd2 to rub it, didn't have my software on me

 

[greasytshirt]

It's a p0410 code that was the description, dryer purges and pops, I'm thinking maybe because of the cold it's throwing codes that are irrelevant till the truck warms up, used a basic obd2 to rub it, didn't have my software on me

You can straight up ignore P0410. It means that it had to wait for air pressure to build up in the tanks before it could light the burner for an scr warmup. It is normal to see this. P0410 will not turn on the check engine light.

 

[greasytshirt]

hey there new to the group really very interested in learning more bout these hino whole new breed of truck to me
quite a few of my rollbacks are having lots of issues with the brake lights, the strobe lights , the beacon not working and the fuses are not blown ive overheard conversation by the dealer bout some kinda of computer module in link to it but not sure where or what it looks like??? little help please

Rollbacks are notorious for wiring problems, especially if the lights on the bed ground to the bed. That means that all the lights are going to try to ground through the hinge pin. Take a look at the ground path on the lights. If everything just attaches to the bed, try running a ground strap across the hinge pin, from the truck's frame to the bed's frame.

Also, the panel in the truck for the pto and bed lights is generally attached to the batteries. Often using a fuse of ridiculous size, like an 80 amp circuit breaker. That's a great way to set it on fire. 15-20 amp fuse is sufficient to run everything. I've seen some crappy installs on brand new trucks that nearly ended in disaster. Not Hino's fault, but rather a shoddy install at the place where the rollback body was installed.

How do you ramp up the engine when the pto is on? Do you turn up the idler knob, or use cruise switches? Would you like to be able to hit the pto switch and the truck immediately ramps up to the pto's rated speed, and have a ton of power behind it? If the engine ecu is attached to the pto circuitry correctly, it will recognize that the pto is on and really be able to make a lot of power for the bed. Picking up really heavy vehicles is now a cakewalk. With the pto wired up like this, it's also possible to do auto regens with the truck stationary while running at rated speed and making full power. There is a ton of stuff that can be done like this and no one knows about it.

 

[Don_vincentio]

You can straight up ignore P0410. It means that it had to wait for air pressure to build up in the tanks before it could light the burner for an scr warmup. It is normal to see this. P0410 will not turn on the check engine light.

Ahh ok, figured not a major one, the light was on, 410 was just pending, the light was on from the aftertreatment fluid level sensor, pops up when the truck is started for the first time in the day, clear it and doesn't come back on no matter how many times the trucks turned off and on in a day, and sometimes doesn't come on at all for months.

 

[Carey47]

An improvement in the injectors and different engine and burner computer programming helped improve reliability tremendously.

 

[artice]

Hello greasytshirt...I've spent some time reading this entire thread...very educational...many thanks!
I am a new owner/operator of a 2012 Hino 338 with 110,000km in Canada. I have worked on my own cars with the help of repair manuals but never on a truck and never on a diesel.
I have had a recurring malfunction light in the last few weeks.It seems to come on mostly when I am on the highway, yet after a few hours starting and stopping in the city it usually goes away. I took it in and was told it was a NOx sensor problem and that both sensors have to be replaced. I saw in this thread that you covered this repair and it seemed pretty straightforward...but I would like to ask if it is at all advisable to replace just one, and if the malfunction reccurs then switch the one that was removed for the other original (another driver told me that it is unusual for both to fail)
I have also noticed that in the last few weeks my truck is using little if any def fluid and the temperature has not always been in the -10Celcius range, many of the days it was well above freezing yet still no usage...do you think this is related...or a separate issue? Thank you.

Nice K quote signature 'Truth is a pathless land'.... I like his stuff too.

 

[greasytshirt]

Hello greasytshirt...I've spent some time reading this entire thread...very educational...many thanks!
I am a new owner/operator of a 2012 Hino 338 with 110,000km in Canada. I have worked on my own cars with the help of repair manuals but never on a truck and never on a diesel.
I have had a recurring malfunction light in the last few weeks.It seems to come on mostly when I am on the highway, yet after a few hours starting and stopping in the city it usually goes away. I took it in and was told it was a NOx sensor problem and that both sensors have to be replaced. I saw in this thread that you covered this repair and it seemed pretty straightforward...but I would like to ask if it is at all advisable to replace just one, and if the malfunction reccurs then switch the one that was removed for the other original (another driver told me that it is unusual for both to fail)
I have also noticed that in the last few weeks my truck is using little if any def fluid and the temperature has not always been in the -10Celcius range, many of the days it was well above freezing yet still no usage...do you think this is related...or a separate issue? Thank you.

Nice K quote signature 'Truth is a pathless land'.... I like his stuff too.

HI there. Both NOx sensors need to have the same part number, and the part number you want ends in E0451. Condemning a NOx sensor, especially an E0451, takes a bit of practice. I have to cold start the truck and start graphing NOx sensor output before they get hot enough to activate. E0451 sensors are pretty hardy, they just don't fail out of the blue.
If you have E0451 NOx sensors, the diagnosis needs to go in a different direction.
If it has E0450 or 0020 NOx sensors, replace them both,.

As far as cold ambient temps affecting DEF usage: If the system freezes, it deactivates for a period of time to allow engine coolant (routed all around the DEF handling components) to thaw anything full of frozen DEF. That may be what you're seeing.

 

[greasytshirt]

A reminder to everyone: if you accidentally put def in the cooling system FLUSH THE WHOLE SYSTEM RIGHT NOW!

Someone just got warranty denied. Ive never seen an injector cup dissolve and disappear.

Don't mix different coolants together, either.

Personally, I don't give a rat's ass about what coolant you run, but pick one and stick with it! Don't allow anyone to top it off with whatever they have laying around, either.

Hino's pink and blue coolants are not compatible with each other.

The pink is good for 300,000 miles, blue for 600,000.

The injector cup doesn't exist anymore! Gone! Coolant in oil, oil in coolant, exhaust gases in coolant. Bearing damage. All of that is bad, but wait, there's more! As coolant was pouring into the exhaust, it wiped out the turbo, then it poisoned the scr catalyst. Those two components add up to around $8000.

Hino injector cups are generally pretty stout, with the occasional one leaking a bit.

 

[artice]

After reading your post I decided to fill the def fluid to the 'full' mark indicator on the tube, so I could confirm my suspicions. It has not dropped at all...I have driven almost 200km mixed city/highway. Any ideas?

 

[greasytshirt]

After reading your post I decided to fill the def fluid to the 'full' mark indicator on the tube, so I could confirm my suspicions. It has not dropped at all...I have driven almost 200km mixed city/highway. Any ideas?

I would have to attach diagnostic computer to it to answer this question.

 

[greasytshirt]

I have worked on my own cars with the help of repair manuals but never on a truck and never on a diesel.
.

Well, let me tell ya, there's never a time where something is not broken on a truck.

Every truck is broken. Even brand new ones. Something is awry. The wise person regularly combs over their truck and looks for this thing.
Check the fluids frequently, along with the tire air pressure. A big truck is absolutely willing to blow a tire at its earliest convenience. A tire 20% low on air is a prime candidate for blowing chunks of rubber all over everyone behind you, and it won't have looked flat at all. Gotta put a gauge on it.

Every time you change your oil, get up under it with a grease gun and a fresh tube of grease and look at everything. Brake pads. Leaf springs. Loose bolts, cables loose, leaks, everything. Something, somewhere on that truck is messed up and it's your job to find it.

If nothing else, you'll find corrosion growing on the battery terminals, so you'll want to clean that off. Not just squirt some stuff on it, you want to remove the cables and actually clean all that crap off of there.

You're gonna use that whole tube of grease.

Change the fuel filter, too. Drain all the scum out of the fuel/water separator. This is ignored far too often.

Do this every time you change the oil. 10,000 miles seems like a nice round number.

If you plan on doing a lot of the work yourself, you're gonna be faced with a couple of expensive tool purchases. These can pay for themselves very quickly, but the initial shock of the cost will sting for a while.

 

[Tobster317]

You mean to tell me the injector cup dissolved? The metal thing you pulled out with my injector that took 45 minutes to get out? WTF.

 

[greasytshirt]

You mean to tell me the injector cup dissolved? The metal thing you pulled out with my injector that took 45 minutes to get out? WTF.

There was a piece the size of a big wedding ring left in the top, and part of the tip was left at the bottom, and a whole lot of absolutely nothing left in the middle. Dissolved in the urea. Urea is some corrosive stuff, but I didn't expect that at all.

 

[Vendediesel]

I have two Hino 338's, both of them 2009, both of them 7 vehicles apart on the assembly line. One with 189K the other with 259K. Both trucks have a random misfire that seems to occur the most between 60 and 70 mph. Sometimes it will occur several times, other times it will not occur at all. Sometimes it will cause a ton of smoke when the DPR goes into automatic re-gen. It also gives a nice "blowoff" sound from the turbo when it happens. They have both been back to the dealer and the dealer was not able to figure it out, as they could not duplicate the problem with a test drive, nonetheless the problem is still there. I also have a 2007 UD 2600 with 400K that has the same problem. I have SEVERAL UD's and this is the only one with that problem, I have 5 Hino's newer than 2006 and two of them have that problem. This is driving me crazy, please help. Thanks.

 

[wayneygogo]

Have you ever removed a gas motor and installed a diesel engine on a Chevrolet

 

[greasytshirt]

I have two Hino 338's, both of them 2009, both of them 7 vehicles apart on the assembly line. One with 189K the other with 259K. Both trucks have a random misfire that seems to occur the most between 60 and 70 mph. Sometimes it will occur several times, other times it will not occur at all. Sometimes it will cause a ton of smoke when the DPR goes into automatic re-gen. It also gives a nice "blowoff" sound from the turbo when it happens. They have both been back to the dealer and the dealer was not able to figure it out, as they could not duplicate the problem with a test drive, nonetheless the problem is still there. I also have a 2007 UD 2600 with 400K that has the same problem. I have SEVERAL UD's and this is the only one with that problem, I have 5 Hino's newer than 2006 and two of them have that problem. This is driving me crazy, please help. Thanks.

The #1 thing that comes to mind is the ITV is sticking shut. Intake throttle valve. Left side of truck, it's what the intercooler outlet tube is connected to. Pull off the intercooler outlet hose. Reach in and grab the throttle plate. Is the throttle loose on the shaft, or are the shaft bushings worn out? If so, take it off and throw it away, get a new one, and drill three holes in the bottom of the plate, 6.5 mm from the bottom edge. One in center bottom, two at 20 degrees from either side. Look for the "Hino Turbo" thread, I posted a pic.

Yes, you're drilling holes in a new part. No, I don't know why it doesn't already come like that. If your ITVs are in good shape, then you can reuse after drilling. All of your trucks, UD included if it has a Hino engine, should have this done.

Then make sure the exhaust brakes are set correctly. Crucial for successful manual regen. Dealer software needed to accomplish.


Edit: this info pertains only to the 2009 trucks. 2008-2010 had ITVs. Earlier they did not. Any check engine lights, diagnostic codes from the older trucks?