Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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towmater

Seasoned Expediter
Fleet Owner
Hi Greasytshirt

I got a 2011 Hino 338 and for some reason sometimes it wont start right away, it will give me code 88. After awhile it starts, just want your input on this. Also i've been trying to locate where the transmission dip stick is at and i cant find it. Thanks
A P0088? how are you retrieving this code?

The trans dipstick is on the right side, kind of near the air filter.

So took the truck to the shop and all th
My 05 ud started having a ruff Idol 2 weeks ago at first it was only when it was cold would bounce around about 50rpm but now it getting worse. When it's cold it will bounce about 150rpm and when it's warm about 50rpm and driving under light throttle can feel it surge (when cold)and heavy throttle seams a little gutless but there is no check engine light.
I'd start with replacing the suction control valve (fuel pressure regulator), located on the front top of the injection pump. If the current one is an inch long, it's ancient. The replacement will be about 2.5 inches long. It will come with an adaptor plate.

If it's already 2.5 inches long, it's the more modern one. These go bad too, but not like the tiny ones.

So I took my truck to theshop and all they have to say is the quality of injection sucks and wants to start with putting a injection pump on it and if that don't fix it then will have to do injecters. I have not done the regulator would you still say to start with that.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Greasy, thanks for the info. I do have a Snap-on scan tool (solus ultra). I can communicate with the ecm and engine, but cannot get an stored codes or transmission information. Do I just need to get an update for light/heavy duty trucks?? Again, greatly appreciate all your help
Which connector are you hooked up to? The round 9-pin is the one to retrieve TCM and ABS from.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
We have a 2008 Hino with the Allison transmission....the transmission light has came on a few times....fluid level is good and clean....turn on the truck and start it back up and the light is gone and the truck runs fine.... any possible causes??
Is the ABS light also on?
 

towmater

Seasoned Expediter
Fleet Owner
all they have to say is the quality of injection sucks

What do they mean by this?

If injection QUANTITY sucks (is super low), then start with injectors.

They said the injector value was good but the injection quantity was erratic and wanted to start with a injection pump but if that didn't fix it then would be injectors all so.
The suction valve got here today after ups lost it a week ago and got it put in tonight and it runs normal again.
The truck has 450,000 miles on it and had 2 injectors done last year and 2 the year before that. Is there any thing else you would reccomend doing right now.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
I Have a question about a Hino 268. Would you know where the orifice tube or the expansion valve is?
It's got an expansion valve. It's about half an hour into the dash. Remove blower motor and it's box for room. You will see two aluminum pipes turn into the heater box. Remove this cover and you'll see the txv. It's a fair pain in the ass to get to, and you always make a mess flushing the evaporator.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
all they have to say is the quality of injection sucks

What do they mean by this?

If injection QUANTITY sucks (is super low), then start with injectors.

They said the injector value was good but the injection quantity was erratic and wanted to start with a injection pump but if that didn't fix it then would be injectors all so.
The suction valve got here today after ups lost it a week ago and got it put in tonight and it runs normal again.
The truck has 450,000 miles on it and had 2 injectors done last year and 2 the year before that. Is there any thing else you would reccomend doing right now.
At this point, I'd love to see the scv test results post-repair.

If it runs normal and doesn't blow black smoke, I wouldn't worry too much more about it. Just keep changing the fuel filters, and do a valve adjustment occasionally.
 

towmater

Seasoned Expediter
Fleet Owner
all they have to say is the quality of injection sucks

What do they mean by this?

If injection QUANTITY sucks (is super low), then start with injectors.

They said the injector value was good but the injection quantity was erratic and wanted to start with a injection pump but if that didn't fix it then would be injectors all so.
The suction valve got here today after ups lost it a week ago and got it put in tonight and it runs normal again.
The truck has 450,000 miles on it and had 2 injectors done last year and 2 the year before that. Is there any thing else you would reccomend doing right now.
At this point, I'd love to see the scv test results post-repair.

If it runs normal and doesn't blow black smoke, I wouldn't worry too much more about it. Just keep changing the fuel filters, and do a valve adjustment occasionally.

I do a fuel filter/oil filter/oil every 6000 miles if I had to guess it's been 75000 miles scents the last valve adjustment.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
all they have to say is the quality of injection sucks

What do they mean by this?

If injection QUANTITY sucks (is super low), then start with injectors.

They said the injector value was good but the injection quantity was erratic and wanted to start with a injection pump but if that didn't fix it then would be injectors all so.
The suction valve got here today after ups lost it a week ago and got it put in tonight and it runs normal again.
The truck has 450,000 miles on it and had 2 injectors done last year and 2 the year before that. Is there any thing else you would reccomend doing right now.
At this point, I'd love to see the scv test results post-repair.

If it runs normal and doesn't blow black smoke, I wouldn't worry too much more about it. Just keep changing the fuel filters, and do a valve adjustment occasionally.

I do a fuel filter/oil filter/oil every 6000 miles if I had to guess it's been 75000 miles scents the last valve adjustment.
Your OIC is great. Valve lash is supposed to be done every 50k, but this seems to be much less critical on trucks without DPFs.
 

DCOM

New Recruit
Fleet Manager
Hi GreasT

I contacted you over on the thumpertalk forum and you recommended I post here. We have a 2012 Isuzu npr cabover with 120,000 miles on it, rarely if ever sits idle (though spends some time in traffic) and is driven Monday - Thursday every week if not more. Here's the scoop:

Frequent regeneration began shortly after a PM service at our local GM / Isuzu dealer and service center. Regeneration would occur more frequently than before (3-4 or more times per week (Mon-Thu) driving in and out of Boston everyday (about 35 mi each way plus driving during the day) as opposed to once or twice AT MOST). Also, the bars on the regen scale would jump from zero, or one or two, all the way to regen required.


At this point, the regeneration cycles wouldn't happen on their own (like when it regens and the bars disappear, but you never really know it happened). Instead, you had to hit the button on the dash to activate the regeneration cycle. After a few manual regens, they came accompanied by warning level 1 lights and low power condition (derated to 55mph).


We brought the truck to the service center and they replaced the DPF filter, again. From what I understand these should last 100,000 miles and it had already been replaced.


1,000mi. later our employee checked the oil level and it was 5/8in. over the top fill line. (If you could elaborate on the severity of the over fill and what issues it can cause that would be helpful.) We then brought the truck to the service center to have the oil level lowered.

Not two weeks later, all of the same conditions came back. If you could provide any input on our series of events that would be incredibly helpful. Thank you.
 

denversnowmobiler

New Recruit
Owner/Operator
My 2013 268 ran fine all day and then once I shut it down it would not restart. If you jump the solenoid on the starter with a screwdriver while the key is on the truck will start.

Is there a sensor or something you can recommend?
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Hi GreasT

I contacted you over on the thumpertalk forum and you recommended I post here. We have a 2012 Isuzu npr cabover with 120,000 miles on it, rarely if ever sits idle (though spends some time in traffic) and is driven Monday - Thursday every week if not more. Here's the scoop:

Frequent regeneration began shortly after a PM service at our local GM / Isuzu dealer and service center. Regeneration would occur more frequently than before (3-4 or more times per week (Mon-Thu) driving in and out of Boston everyday (about 35 mi each way plus driving during the day) as opposed to once or twice AT MOST). Also, the bars on the regen scale would jump from zero, or one or two, all the way to regen required.


At this point, the regeneration cycles wouldn't happen on their own (like when it regens and the bars disappear, but you never really know it happened). Instead, you had to hit the button on the dash to activate the regeneration cycle. After a few manual regens, they came accompanied by warning level 1 lights and low power condition (derated to 55mph).


We brought the truck to the service center and they replaced the DPF filter, again. From what I understand these should last 100,000 miles and it had already been replaced.


1,000mi. later our employee checked the oil level and it was 5/8in. over the top fill line. (If you could elaborate on the severity of the over fill and what issues it can cause that would be helpful.) We then brought the truck to the service center to have the oil level lowered.

Not two weeks later, all of the same conditions came back. If you could provide any input on our series of events that would be incredibly helpful. Thank you.


Hi again. I'm much better versed in Hino than Isuzu, but they have some similar traits. It sounds like it was overfilled with oil at the service center. How much, no one knows.

On Hinos, the amount of soot in the DPF is determined by a calculation, not by constant reading of differential pressure like on American trucks. Isuzu MAY be the same way, to some degree. I don't know for sure.
What happens on Hinos is when you have bad injectors or an unaccounted-for fuel source (like engine oil) enter the DPF, the ecu doesn't realize it, and when the truck regens it gets stupid hot and melts the ceramic substrate that makes up the DPF.

So you've got a ton of extra oil and it may have been making its way into the exhaust stream, possibly through the turbo and very likely through the crankcase ventilation system. Pull the intercooler hoses off and look for puddles of liquid oil (a little oily film all over everything is considered normal. Remove the crankcase breather hoses and see if there's liquid oil in there too, and follow these hoses up to where they connect to the intake air stream. I'd just want to make sure that these areas are relatively oil free at this point. Then I'd remove the DOC and blow it out with compressed air. Wear a mask. If the face of the DOC was clogged, it may not come up to temp properly.

It's funny that you mentioned that the DPF bar graph jumps. On Hinos, this is an indication (usually) that one of the DPF temp sensors is going bad, or that there's a break in the temp sensor harness (not that unusual). Seems to me that one of these sensors may be having an issue, or possibly the differential pressure sensor has an issue. This sensor is pretty hardy, and is rarely the problem. Clogged pressure lines are possible. It's also possible that someone forgot to disconnect the hose from the sensor and whacked the sensor with 150psi of shop air while blowing out one of the pressure tubes or something. Not that I have any personal experience with doing that. Nope.

Sorry for the nebulous answer. I don't know how Isuzu calculates soot volume, and I don't know what causes their graphs to jump.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
My 2013 268 ran fine all day and then once I shut it down it would not restart. If you jump the solenoid on the starter with a screwdriver while the key is on the truck will start.

Is there a sensor or something you can recommend?
The start signal is going to pass through the range position switch if it has an automatic transmission, and through the clutch switch if it's a manual. Which transmission do you have?

Also, do you hear a relay clicking in the fuse panel when you turn the key to start?
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
It's an automatic and yes you can here the clicking in the fuse panel.


Does that clicking stop when you have it in a gear other than neutral or park? Or, with the key on, engine off, do you hear a relay click when you shift from neutral to drive, then neutral again?

I'm trying to figure out if both the starter relay and starter cut relay are both responding.

Have you tried wiggling the shifter in neutral when holding the key to the start position? If this works, it's a problem witht the range position switch inside the transmission.

There's a start fuse in the fuse panel. Check that. There's also a fusible link in the external fuse box marked STA/GLOW. Check that too.
 

Aplekan

New Recruit
Mechanic
I have a 04 hino 338 with engine model j08e-tb. The issue I'm having is the u2 act fuse keeps blowing. I have replaced the turbo, went threw all the grounds and cleaned them up. Made sure they are good and cean. It will drive great for about 20ish min and then the fuse blows. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks!
Aplekan
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
I have a 04 hino 338 with engine model j08e-tb. The issue I'm having is the u2 act fuse keeps blowing. I have replaced the turbo, went threw all the grounds and cleaned them up. Made sure they are good and cean. It will drive great for about 20ish min and then the fuse blows. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks!
Aplekan
Both EGR valves are on this same circuit. The white wire at both valves are both power supply from U2 act fuse.
 

Aplekan

New Recruit
Mechanic
I have a 04 hino 338 with engine model j08e-tb. The issue I'm having is the u2 act fuse keeps blowing. I have replaced the turbo, went threw all the grounds and cleaned them up. Made sure they are good and cean. It will drive great for about 20ish min and then the fuse blows. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks!
Aplekan
Both EGR valves are on this same circuit. The white wire at both valves are both power supply from U2 act fuse.

Thanks, I'll check it out tomorrow and see what I can find. I'm pretty much looking for a short somewhere that keeps blowing the fuse? Also the cruise control stopped working. Any way they are related? It stopped right when the fuse started blowing. It won't let me idle up for the pto when I run the vacuum.
 
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