its throwing a check engine light and a dpr light or something. We buy and sell all kinds of equip so I havta really research and pay attention... pretty much a jack of all makes master of none lol... If I remember right from this morning it was a code for too much soot and a regen system malfunction...
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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Before you attempt to regen it, go into the ecu, dcu, bcu, hit system fix, then exit. Write down the codes. Go to past work information. This info consists the dx report. Go into ecu system protection data. Find the line that says something like 'amount of pm piling up' and report back. If its over 8, it may cook the dpf. 12 is the theoretical limit, but risky. If it hasnt melted it, these can be successfully cooked in a dpf oven. Also find dpf outlet max temp. If over 1485, it may have melted internally. A trip to the oven plus one of their flow tests will show the answer.
Your drivers should be told to never allow the dpr meter on thr dash to hit ten bars(this in itself wont actually damage anything, but play it safe). If a manual regen is attempted but it takes longer than 20 min (10-15 being normal), there's a problem. Theoretically it could take up to an hour, but other things are at play.
What state are you in?
im in kansas... so your sayiN it needs baked most likely if its not too plugged already... and thts the wonderful part basically all the trucks we get in are from auctions or trade ins so I get to pick up the pieces behind all kinds of previous owners/ fleets so I dont get to tell the drivers how to drive it really is quite an interesting job lol...
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Negative sir, it could be a couple days yet I have some other trucks ahead of it now. thanks for checking in!
Hi greasytshirt. I just bought a 2006 Hino 268a, and there is a secondary fuel tank on the driver's side. It's in the way of equipment we're having installed, so I have 2 options...
1. Move the tank to the passenger side, for a cost of ~ $750. Seems really high.
2. Remove the secondary fuel tank entirely. It will limit range, but everything we do is local. Having two tanks may be excessive and could lead to stale fuel.
If I were to remove the tank, is it as simple as just capping the lines? Or, is there more to it because of the balancing between the two tanks?
Thanks for your help!
1. Move the tank to the passenger side, for a cost of ~ $750. Seems really high.
2. Remove the secondary fuel tank entirely. It will limit range, but everything we do is local. Having two tanks may be excessive and could lead to stale fuel.
If I were to remove the tank, is it as simple as just capping the lines? Or, is there more to it because of the balancing between the two tanks?
Thanks for your help!
Id just run two new lines, personally. They just tee them together.
If you decide to remove it and want to sell it let me know I would love to add a second tank to my 2005!!!!
Hooked up and got rid of the codes checked the dpr outlet temp it was 1589 so its like cooked. checked the dpr differential pressure and its like .3 psi max.
What were the codes? Generally speaking, the codes aren't intermittent. They will come back. In other words, don't clear them to see if they come back.
On a 2012, first you want to do an injection quantity test. Run the truck until the coolant temp is above 176 or so. After it's warmed up completely, use DX to set the rpm at 1500. Monitor engine speed, coolant temp, and injection quantity. Monitor it for about ten minutes. Does the engine rpm fluctuate in a range of around 1490-1510 or more? What's the injection quantity? If you see this fluctuation for a good portion of that ten minutes, and/or the injection quantity is consistently less than six, it needs injectors. This was the cause of the excess soot that packed into the DPF and caused the outlet temp to skyrocket. Depending on mileage, you may want to contact your local dealer and see what the warranty guide says: some trucks are getting coverage in the 4-5 year range with 250k miles. It changes now and then. Worth a call. If the injectors have any warranty left, it will also pay for incidental damages. If injectors wipe out the dpf, you get a dpf covered too. Definitely worth looking at.
What were those codes? Soot in tailpipe? Find the line that says "pm amount of piling up". It may be in the ecu customization menu. If below 12, it may be able to regen. Write that number down, then change it to three. This will set the DPR meter to four bars, and you can force a manual regen (don't do it yet).
The engine speed and injection were normally 1495 to 1505 worst jump I saw was 1495 to 1510 injection quantity never got under 7.5 but went as high as 9.7 yes there is black soot in tail pipe... the codes I dont know what they were didnt write them down :/ sorry dpf system says 1 bar on dash .8 by computer.... I already regen it before because I figured it didnt matter if it was already trash.... looks like ive got things all jacked up huh... thank you for your help sorry I wasted ur time
The engine speed and injection were normally 1495 to 1505 worst jump I saw was 1495 to 1510 injection quantity never got under 7.5 but went as high as 9.7 yes there is black soot in tail pipe... the codes I dont know what they were didnt write them down :/ sorry dpf system says 1 bar on dash .8 by computer.... I already regen it before because I figured it didnt matter if it was already trash.... looks like ive got things all jacked up huh... thank you for your help sorry I wasted ur time
You haven't messed up. The codes will be in the dx report. Sounds like you need a dpf.
Ok tht sounds good
the injectors are ok then? I'll try to find the codes.
Ok tht sounds good
The injectors sound ok at this point.
Ok tht sounds good
When are you going to look at it again? If you want, i'll pm you my phone #.
ultimate556
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At what temperature will the fan clutch come on, on a 2010 258? And with a clogged egr cooler or dpf can this cause the truck to run hot?
They tend to come in between 185-200 degrees.
Do you suspect a dpf issue?
Remove the intercooler. This reveals how filthy the radiator has become, and allows you to clean it.
If the temp gauge is moving past its normal mark with no fan clutch operation, replace the fan clutch or you'll eventually blow the head gasket.
I can't think of a single case of an egr cooler clogging on one of these (where I work, anyway).
I'll definitely let you know, coalminer!
ultimate556
New Recruit
The truck had a bad head gasket. Fixed that and its still running a little warm. It goes to the white line before the red. We cleaned the radiator and not much help. The customer said they are always getting regents while driving it. The truck will run on high idle all day not run normal temps
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