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Cargo Van Promaster Oil Change

Solar

Expert Expediter
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An oil change is a pretty easy thing. Still, that “first time” it would be great to eliminate the guesswork.

Tools:
13mm
24mm
Flat Head Screwdriver
Oil Pan and Funnel

Oil Filter:
Passenger side on top of engine. Has a head for a 24mm socket or wrench. Not much room in the area of the engine.

I went to Harbor Freight, got the smallest crescent wrench that would expand to 24mm. (I just walked it over to the sockets to see). Cost $5.

Oil Filters:
Mobile 1 - M1C-456
WIX 10010
STP - S11665
Fram - CH11665
Mopar - MO-349
K & N - PS-7026

Be sure not to forget the rubber gasket. I use the flat head screwdriver to assist in removing the gasket from the filter casing.

Oil Plug:
Pretend there’s a line straight down from the filter to the bottom of the engine. That’s where it’s at. 13mm wrench.

Oil:
5W-20
You want it to have the MS-6395 spec. Mine took 5.3 quarts.

Oil Sensor:
To reset Oil computer doohickey:
Turn key to “ON”, but do not start.
Press Accelerator to the floor 3x within 10 seconds.
Repeat process, just to be sure.

Personal Insights:
I want this engine to last. Owners Manual recommended if you’re using it heavy, and idling, to change every 4,000 miles. I am, so that’s a LOT of oil changing. I want to keep the cost down but quality good.

Oil
Pennzoil Platnum 5W-20 Full Synthetic has the MS-6395 marking. It’s $23/5quart and $7/1quart at Walmart.

Oil Filter
Because this was the vehicles “First” Oil Change, I wanted a better quality filter. The Mopar Filter is recommended by the Owner’s Manual, but I went with the K & N that I was surprised to find, less expensive than the Mopar. All future Oil Filters will be STP S11665, it’s $5.

That way, oil changes cost $35, hang onto the rest of the quart and second oil change costs $28. I don’t mind paying an average $31.50 per oil change. In fact, adding a better filter wouldn’t cost that much more, but at 4,000 mile changes, and they’re paper filters, I just don’t see the benefit of an extended life filter.

I know, pretty basic stuff. I know people will have opinions on oil and filters. I just wanted to contribute a little something to a site that has given me so much.

I was surprised at my first oil change, 4,000 miles on the vehicle, that the oil filter was as dark as it was. I think getting a fresh filter in would be important, personally. The oil looked a little raggedy, but mostly clear. I’m definitely glad I changed at 4K miles, it wasn’t an early waste. I’ve also always held the belief that the most ‘shavings’ of metal and/or anything else, happens at the first. This is the fist time of scratches and rubs inside the motor, so if anything is going to become removed easily, it happens early, my 2 cents.
 
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robin280

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I don't know what Dodge offers as far as oil changes, but the Ford dealerships have a thing called The Works. It includes an oil change, tire rotation, and they check all belts, hoses, etc, including brakes. They charge about $50 for this service. Otherwise, I go to a Valvoline shop. It costs about the same but you don't get the tire rotation. Some Valvoline shops offer tire rotation, but my Transit is a high roof version, so I don't always fit.
 

Pro3500

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I see some guys putting 5.5 qts 5.3 etc, not sure why. The book calls for 6 qts (5.6 liters). That’s all I’ve ever put in mine. Almost 520,000 miles not an issue yet.
 
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BigStickJr

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5.3 or 5.5 quarts.
Are these guys checking level before starting and filling the filter ?
 

Pro3500

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Not sure, im sure it’s never going to hurt anything but I want all the oil I can get in it. Even thought about adding another qt to the pan size.
 

Solar

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I filled level to top of the fill line on the dipstick, started the engine, let it run a minute, then checked level again where I needed to add a little more, absorbed into the filter. Once it was at the top of the fill line, I was done. Estimating from the bottle it was about 1/3 of the bottle. So I put down 5.3.

I trust the fill line on the dipstick over everything else, I wouldn’t recommend blindly adding “x” amount and disregarding the fill line on the dipstick.
 

FlyingVan

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I trust the fill line on the dipstick over everything else, I wouldn’t recommend blindly adding “x” amount and disregarding the fill line on the dipstick.
I agree. Something that can happen is that not all the oil drains out and if you put in what it says in the book you will be over the mark. Putting too much oil in can be detrimental.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
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Treadmill

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I see some guys putting 5.5 qts 5.3 etc, not sure why. The book calls for 6 qts (5.6 liters). That’s all I’ve ever put in mine. Almost 520,000 miles not an issue yet.
Sounds like the oil change place is not properly draining the oil.
 

Pro3500

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I see some guys putting 5.5 qts 5.3 etc, not sure why. The book calls for 6 qts (5.6 liters). That’s all I’ve ever put in mine. Almost 520,000 miles not an issue yet.
Sounds like the oil change place is not properly draining the oil.
Mines just over the full mark with 6 qts, so I’m not sure. It’s not a big deal either way. Over or under to an extent isn’t going to cause any harm. Certainly not a few ounces. You need to be over filled enough that the crank will actually fling the oil. That could make it foam up. To low the pump will scavenge for oil. I’ve seen this discussion on other sites as well. I suspect maybe the dip stick length could be off on some? Maybe depends on who’s making them at the time? An 1/8th of an inch could = 3-4 ounces. And a lot depends on the internal shape as well. These engines have two base pans. One is internal covering most of the crank. It’s possible that the oil spills over into the block area when it’s almost full. Another words that last 6-8 ounces is spread over a larger area and won’t climb the stick as fast. I’ve had my oil pan off and a dry sump refill took just under 7 qts. It’s a good discussion either way. The end point is don’t be afraid to change your oil. Climbing under the van and spending a few minutes under the hood is always good. Look around while your there. Just because it’s not broke doesn’t mean it don’t need fixing.
 
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Treadmill

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I see some guys putting 5.5 qts 5.3 etc, not sure why. The book calls for 6 qts (5.6 liters). That’s all I’ve ever put in mine. Almost 520,000 miles not an issue yet.
Sounds like the oil change place is not properly draining the oil.
Mines just over the full mark with 6 qts, so I’m not sure. It’s not a big deal either way. Over or under to an extent isn’t going to cause any harm. Certainly not a few ounces. You need to be over filled enough that the crank will actually fling the oil. That could make it foam up. To low the pump will scavenge for oil. I’ve seen this discussion on other sites as well. I suspect maybe the dip stick length could be off on some? Maybe depends on who’s making them at the time? An 1/8th of an inch could = 3-4 ounces. And a lot depends on the internal shape as well. These engines have two base pans. One is internal covering most of the crank. It’s possible that the oil spills over into the block area when it’s almost full. Another words that last 6-8 ounces is spread over a larger area and won’t climb the stick as fast. I’ve had my oil pan off and a dry sump refill took just under 7 qts. It’s a good discussion either way. The end point is don’t be afraid to change your oil. Climbing under the van and spending a few minutes under the hood is always good. Look around while your there. Just because it’s not broke doesn’t mean it don’t need fixing.
I get my oil changed at the local Mobil 1. I always get out and watch them pull drain plug and watch oil drain. My sprinter takes 13 qts. Tech will put in 12 1/2 qts and then i will let computer tell me if i need to add more. Usually is says oil level is ok but i also add the other half qt to crankcase and never have had a problem.
 

Solar

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Second oil change at 8,000 miles.

Agreeing with the posts, periodic checks of oil level is required, especially checking it cold in the morning, before it’s been started.

I’m glad I used the K&N filter, because the oil was black. I’d be fearful to let it go 10k miles no matter what the bottle of oil says, the engine is working that oil hard after 4K miles.

Used a Fram filter this time, simply because it was there in Walmart while I was picking up the oil. I still plan on using the STP filter, it was just convenience that prevented this purchase.

Anyway, idk why there is discrepancies in how much oil, but it’s on the fill level mark, that’s best I can do.
 
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Pro3500

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I ran into a guy that goes 20,000 between changes. Highway driving it won’t give a oil change light until 10,000 miles. I change between 5-7. It’s probably over kill but it’s cheap and easy to do. I try to rotate my tires with every oil change as well. If I change it on the road I rotate the tires when I get home. Had 160,000 on the last set and they had another 10-15 in them. But winter was setting in so I kicked them to the curb. I rotate the spare in the mix and run 72 psi warm tire all the way around.
 
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Solar

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Oil Change #3

Well I’m certainly could be considered overkill with 4,000 mole oil changes, but again, I’m not running like a normal vehicle, highway speeds for longer than normal periods of time. Because weather is wonderful, got idling down to nil, but still I foresee a bit as weather gets colder.

The oil is black, but this batch had a little more life left to it than the previous. Fram Oil filter looked good, so I used another Fram.

Getting oil change down faster and faster. I did notice this time that the oil fill cap has a rubber gasket, so I’m going to put fresh oil on it every time I change as well.

I need to dig into the owners manual to see about when air filter changes are to take place. I’ll probably buy a K&N and their cleaner, and just clean it periodically.
 
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FlyingVan

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If you care about your vehicle, stay away from the likes of k&n air filters. Use the OEM filter and change it when required.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
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BigStickJr

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Not sure, im sure it’s never going to hurt anything but I want all the oil I can get in it. Even thought about adding another qt to the pan size.
If you don’t have an oil cooler, wouldn’t adding one bring about another quart into play ?
 

Pro3500

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Not sure, im sure it’s never going to hurt anything but I want all the oil I can get in it. Even thought about adding another qt to the pan size.
If you don’t have an oil cooler, wouldn’t adding one bring about another quart into play ?
It could depending on the size of the cooler. They have an oil cooler from the factory located under the intake. It’s actualy part of the filter housing. Coolant is circulated through the housing. The capacity isn’t much though.
 

Pro3500

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If you care about your vehicle, stay away from the likes of k&n air filters. Use the OEM filter and change it when required.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
I’ve never heard that about a K&N filter before.
 

FlyingVan

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I’ve never heard that about a K&N filter before.
K&N filters sacrifice efficiency in favor of airflow. So sure, you might get one ore two horsepower extra but at the expense of cleanliness of the air which wears out your engine long term.

Another issue is the oil that you put on the filter. Some of this oil ends up on some electronics downstream and coats them really good and eventually you get check engine lights, etc.

You can do some research on the K&N air filters and see for yourself. I would not run one if someone paid me to do it.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
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Pro3500

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It is true if you drown them in oil it could effect the mass air flow sensor. It does that by coating it in oil. The oil holds in heat and gives faults readings. I’ve sold and installed hundreds of K&N filters and never heard this before. Interesting though, I’ll have to do some digging.
 
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Pro3500

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I’ve never heard that about a K&N filter before.
K&N filters sacrifice efficiency in favor of airflow. So sure, you might get one ore two horsepower extra but at the expense of cleanliness of the air which wears out your engine long term.

Another issue is the oil that you put on the filter. Some of this oil ends up on some electronics downstream and coats them really good and eventually you get check engine lights, etc.

You can do some research on the K&N air filters and see for yourself. I would not run one if someone paid me to do it.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
An interesting artical on filters. K&N Air Filter Review - Debunking the Myths (and why OEM is better)

You may be on to something.
 
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