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P2002 - Just Purchased Truck

Veggies

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Greetings,

New to Hino land. Just purchased a 2010 - 268 reefer. 120,000 miles.

Driving the thing home from Boise it tossed me a manual regen. I pulled over, ran the regen, truck said it completed and I moved along. (I was pushing into a 40 mph headwind, truck weighed 17,000 all day, and it didn't want to get over 45 mph. Not sure if that's normal or not, I knew these things were a bit under-powered, but was a bit sad w/ that).

Anyway, about an hour and a half later I was climbing maybe 2% grade and no longer in the headwind. Had the thing in cruise at 55 mph. It dropped out of cruise and tossed me a Check Engine light.

I was only 50 miles from home at that point, it was 2 a.m. and truck wasn't derating at all so I just ran it home. P2002 is the only code. This is also when I discovered there was a DPF monitor setting on the Dash. 10 bars.

Called dealer to make sure all recalls have been performed. They say its all been done.

Took to local shop who said they could do a forced regen. Not sure if they did that or not. They found some soot in the tailpipe, actual DPF doesn't look apparently bad but they are suggesting it might be. Not a hino dealer or certified shop, but say they have worked on them. They are asking me what to do next. Say "maybe new DPF, maybe bake it." I have no idea. I would normally just fix the thing myself, but I'm in a pinch and really need to get this truck to work, and don't have time to fool around with my inevitable learning curve (first truck with any emissions equipment).

What a lovely introduction to the new truck. Anybody got some ideas?
 

greasytshirt

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If you are monitoring the DPR graph, does it gradually climb to ten bars, or does it jump up? There are many causes of low power, and low power during Regen. Hino DX2 needs to be connected and a report taken for more clues. There could be an airflow problem (ITV, turbo), the injectors overfueling, temp sensor or wiring problems, software issues, and the DOC could be melted. Many things to check.
 

greasytshirt

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If there's a thick layer of soot in the tailpipe there is likely DPR damage. They don't go bad by themselves, something caused it. If the DPR is replaced and no other action taken, the new one will be damaged, too.
 

greasytshirt

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The first and easiest thing to check is if the ITV has been modified. Remove the hose on the intercooler and see if the throttle plate on the intake is loose. You'll want to drill three 3mm holes in it. If you search, you'll find a picture of where these holes should go. The throttle plate can get stuck closed during Regen , causing low power and high DPR inlet temps.
 

Veggies

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Unfortunately, I wasn't monitoring the DPF graph as I didn't know that it existed at the time.

Will check the ITV today, not sure how "thick" the layer of soot was. I will take a picture and post here if possible.

Sounds like I should probably button it up, and take to the actual HINO dealer? They are an hour away, wasn't sure I should drive it that far again.
 

greasytshirt

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If you can get them to email you a copy of the dx report, you can email it to me or post it here so we can get a better idea of what's going on.
 

Veggies

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Great, that will be the plan.

I just spoke to the mechanic today, he is recommending that I just button in up and run it. They did a forced regen, and say that the DPF look OK.

Will take it to the HINO dealer and have them plug it in and check it out.
 

Veggies

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Also.

Thank you, thank you, thank you for the reply here. I really appreciate this.
 

greasytshirt

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Did they take the DPR out? The DOC face will melt away, usually caused by injectors overfueling.
 

Veggies

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OK, with an update here.

They did not take the DPR out, just looked at the back.

I went over there today, and noticed some oil coming out of the host going from Intercooler to ITV. No holes in the ITV, for starters, and the whole system is full of oil.

Guessing that turbo is the culprit here. Wouldn't coming out of the turbo also mean excess soot and particulates coming out the exhaust?

Are the ITV holes a recall fix, or just something old hands know to do?
 

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greasytshirt

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The turbos on these things tend to have oil pass through them. Most of that is normal.

There is a TSB out on ITV modification. It really helps in case of ITV stick.

When things go south, the DOC face will melt and the back of the DPF will blow out. If it hasn't failed catastrophically I'd just keep on running it. As long as the DOC is catalyzing and the temp rises during regen like it's supposed to, and the differential pressure across the DPF is somewhat normal, it should still regen even if it's passing soot.
 

Veggies

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Hmmm.. seemed like a ton of oil to me. But you have definitely seen a lot more of these than I have (1).

Could it need a pcv filter or something stupid like that?
 

greasytshirt

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You can add a filter. Get the filter and cap for a 2011-up truck. If you take off your cap, there's a plastic thing in there that you can remove and throw away, then the newer filter drops in.
 

Veggies

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Haha, yeah. Right after I posted that I went out and popped the cap off. No filter at all, I was perplexed there for a second. If I'm reading you right, that's normal. strange setup.

I know they were running it with a clogged up air filter for a while, because I made them change in before I drove off the lot. Wondering if that just increased vacuum a tad through crank case and in turn increased the amount of gunk coming up through there. PCV to Intake hose was coated pretty heavily as well.

Still doesn't explain my issue with the P2002 code, and dropping a CEL before giving me the manual regen heads up. But I'm comfortable just running it with that, and keeping an eye on the DPF chart as I go. Will plug in the scan tool next regen and check whatever sensors I can actualy see through the OBDII.

Anybody have luck with an Ebay DX? Would like to just get the software in house, but $$$$$$$$$$$$.
 

Veggies

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UPDATE: Picked the truck up today, and took it out for a quick deadhead run up to our Box manufacturer for a short trip and light load to see how things would go. I kept the scan tool plugged in and recording to keep an eye on any sensors I could see (dpf not one of them, unfortunately). I kept DPF graph up on the dash.

Notes: (Still need to drill holes in ITV, looking for procedure so I don't screw it up but ran out of time last night.) I left the exhaust brake off for this entire trip, as I've read nightmares and don't want to let that baby run until it gets dialed in.

IAT sensor is reading -4 degrees Fahrenheit, steady. No change. It was 75 ambient today. Guessing that baby needs to go.

DPF Graph: Northbound went from 0 bars to 1 bar after about 20 miles. Went from 1 bar to 5 bars and "Give Me Manual Regen" flashing 4 miles later. Pulled over, did the regen, back to zero for the next 20 miles north.

DPF Graph: Southbound went from 0 bars to 1 bar after about 20 miles south, then jumped from 1 bar to 3 bars. Then it went from 3 bars to zero. Looks like ol' girl did an active regen? I didn't see, feel or hear any other indication that a regen took place, but I was on the Freeway at rush hour near Seattle.

Any additional insights Greasy?

I sure appreciate all the work you've put in here. Trying to read the litany to avoid asking the same questions on repeat, but will probably take a month.

Thanks,

______________________________________

Added Bonus, Story time: Some chump rear ended me on the freeway and bent up my lift gate pretty good on the return, smashed a tail light, and absolutely DESTROYED his passenger vehicle but managed to drive away and evade any responsibility for the damage.

Also got pulled over for a random inspection by the state patrol, and passed with flying colors but missed my dock time w/ that and the manual regen.

Great day at work boys and girls. Hope you have a great 4th.
 

greasytshirt

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The bar graph jumping is unusual. It's supposed to go up to three, do an automatic regen, then return to zero. It sounds like it did it once successfully. Temp sensor issues can cause this, along with some other things we discussed. Sorry to hear about the accident, crazy drivers are everywhere.
 

Veggies

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Hey There,

Thanks for checking in. Been a crazy week.

Been running OK, but still got some concerns.

I replaced the "METER ASSY - INTAKE AIR" right after the air box, but IAT still reading -4 on the Scan Tool. Not sure what to do there. It was a factory part from HINO. Maybe scan tool is just not talking to the thing? All the other sensors seem to read fine.

I'm seeing black smoke on take off, and any time I use the exhaust brake a nice puff comes out right when I turn it off.

It seems to go back and forth between completing an auto regen, and demanding a manual. Today I ran to PDX and Back, a solid 300 miles and change. Required 2 manual regens, and auto-regened probably 4-5 times. It actually seems to auto regen only if I use the exhaust brake after the previous auto regen. Only times it went from 1 to 5 bars were when I hadn't used it.

I've never seen 2 bars on the DPR graph. Only 1, 3, 0 OR 1, 5+Regen Light.

Also, I went to check the oil after running it today. Let the truck sit for about 10 mins, and the oil was ALL the way up the dipstick. Was right on the full line Friday morning. Not sure what that's all about, didn't look contaminated.

Finally, I noticed a coating of oil around the power steering pump. I've seen that before, but couldn't find the leak. Though it was coming from turbo hose at connection to intercooler (wrong). Found it today, big crack on bottom side of Turbo hose from Intercooler to ITV. Seems like that shouldn't also be blowing oil, but it's buildup over time not all today. You did say those turbos pass some oil.

Bet I score some power when that gets replaced tomorrow, but pretty worried about the DPR / Black Smoke / Oil situation. Hoping smoke is due to over-fueling from turbo leak screwing up fuel to air ratio, and also making DPR go funny w/ excess junk in exhaust. That plausible?

I need this truck on the road if at all possible, but I also need it to be functioning properly and not self-destructing. I owe $ on it, and it is dedicated to working 6 days a week on a contract I have through August.
 
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