You have the most fuel efficient Hino...EVER! Seriously though, sometimes it is below the ring that holds the top bowl on. When your filter gets dirty or water accumulates the fuel level rises. If you had a hard start issue the anti-drain back flap valve is under the fuel filter, if this was hung open it could return the fuel to the tank on shutdown. If it starts and runs fine. Don't sweat it, it will rise eventually.
Hey guys, im in a jam. Same issue as Tampa except my truck isnt running fine once it goes below the collar... After a tons of test and often repeated... I figured i over torqued the inlet fitting for the fuel/water seperator... so i purchased another 1 and installed it... truck ran fine for a few hours and once it got below that collar it went back to crap... now, if i just fill the f/w seperator and rev up the bubbles are constant at about 1800rpm and never really catches a prime, but if i take the outlet hose off and let the fuel come out as it pleases and also let the f/w seperator drain out completely.. reattach the hose refill the bowl let it idle for 1 min then high rev for 2 min. I get zero bubbles.. once i go down the road after about 15 min it looses prime... should the tubing that comes up into the filter drain when i remove the filter?? Any help will be greatly appreciated.. thanks in advance
Also if im having trouble getting up to speed or power i pump the accelerator slowly and it starts grabbing speed and power.. which in return makes my acceleration bar drop and mpg rise, but within a couple minutes i have to pump it again...
I would first remove the fuel filter and make 100% sure the orange flap valve is there, this is the anti-drain back valve. I’m not 100% sure it would come on a new filer assembly. If it is there make sure there is nothing holding it open. Re-install the filter, get some clear tubing, remove fuel line from the rh side of the filter. Install a clear line from the filler neck of the fuel tank directly to the filter housing where you removed the original black fuel hose. Start the truck and see if you are having the same issue. This will bypass the tanks a pontenial issue and give you an indication of how well the lift pump in the back of the fuel pump working. I would replace the black bubbler filter as cheap insurance. They interval is 84 months but I have seen them plug up way before that.
I did the clear hose test except i used a blakc hose to the filler neck, but i replaced the short black hose for the inlet with a clear just to test for bubbles.. i still was getting bubbles.. at that point i made sure all fittings and everything on the f/w seperator was tight.. the check valve did come installed and its also working properly... i replaced the bubbler filter yesterday and it seems to be running okay.. wayyy better than before but im still getting a chugging noise at 45-50mph.. unless i accelerate and make it down shift then i no longer hear it.. now a week or so ago the truck killed on me while parked.. once i got it restarted the 20 min drive home the truck had so much power and speed.. my acceleration bar would barely see 75% and my mpg was incredibly high with absolutely zero chugging.. did take much driving the next morning before it started acting up again... now with everything new except the lift pump.. i think i may have it now but like insaid i still get a lil chugging at 45-50... Do you think i sstill have air in the lines? And also I feel like my mpg should be higher and my acceleration should be lower... only way to text that lift pump is the hose trick to the filler neck? I almost forgot to mention that my fuel is still dropping below the collar.. my mechanic has the hino software but and get it to communicate...... he did get into the transmission and a p2669 was stored and he said that was my problem but i think that code is from the mess i made under the hood with diesel everywhere and water from cleanup because everytime i add fuel to the f/w seperator and purge the lines it would run great for 10-15 then start acting up again... so i dont see the p2669 cause me tonlose prime... or could it?
Just tried the clear hose again except this time i put it in place of the black hose on the inlet side... started the truck and the whole bowl quickly ran below the collar...turned off truck and refilled processor... started truck and it dropped just below the top of the filter, but i watched the diesel through the cleat tube get sucked from the tank... now im not sure how quick its supposed to get sucked up but it seem to be fairly quick.. at one time when I would refill bowl and reprime it.... it would run hella better with no chuggin, acceleration bar on dash low and current mpg up, but now it doesnt do that anymore... when im in oarked and im revving at high rpms it sound like the fan or something and turning off but thats when the truck is actually runs good... i get most bubbles at 1000 rpms and 1800 well if i hold it there and let it bubble it wont stop and that fan sound kicks on but if i start pumping it slowly the fan sounds turns off.. while driving, same thing
Im still fighting this issue Hino123... tell me this, if i fill the fuel processor with fuel and i high idle for a few minues... should it bubble and fuel level drop slowly drop?? Someone mentioned the only way the fuel would drop without cracking the vent is if there is a leak... vacuum is so good that i can push down in the processor and unscrew the collar and itll almost hold it down with the vacuum it has.. i can also feel the vacuum when unscrewing the vent cap.. i ran a secondary tank still bubbling.. almost exactly like the processor was doing before i replaced it with a new 1.. if i pinch off the inlet hose to the processor itll bubble and the level will drop but when i release the pinch it quickly goes back to the level before i pinched it off and let it drop.. also at that point my inlet hose becomes hard and feels normal.. if i just let it idle and do nothing.. the inlet hose becomes spongy feeling.. i have however been getting better mpg woth less acceleration if i stay at a steady speed for a while and i also get alot better throttle response.. up until i go back into town... the gurgling sound coming from the turbo has cleaned up alot but as i run it with fuel below the collar it get worse until I dump fuel back in and repurge.. i picked this truck up out of Brooklyn NY amd since i had it for maybe 6 months it has always kinda gurgled but not nearly as bad and as long as i can remember when turning into an unloved driveway the tank makes a loud pop noise and i can actually feel it under my feet from in the cab... sorry for just piling up a bunch of scenarios but im just beat.. like physically and mentally beat.. if i could get 30 min of yall time to give me a call so that you can ask the question and i can answer right away and let you know if i did or didnt try that or wateva... im not much of a begger, but i begging you if the truck would be throwing a code i would definitely take it in, but its not... and before i went out on my own i drove a hino for a towing company and the bills he would get from the dealer were outrageous... i really cant afford a lick like that right now.. before i do that i rather purchase the software, but then again my mechanic has the software and can
T communicate with the computer..
I appreciate your extensive details, unfortunately I do not look the fuel in fuel filter housings as way to 100% diagnose a fuel issue. It is hard to follow your diagnosis steps and I am assuming by “processor “you mean fuel filter. I have seen rags and other items in tanks cause this issue. I would make sure the vent breather on the tank is free then systematically eliminate EVERYTHING on the suction and low pressure side. . Bypass it all and run a line from the tank, to the INLET of the pump and drive it. If your issue goes away it is from the pump back if it does not, remove or bypass each component until you find the issue. I have seen cigarette buttts get sucked up In the fuel tube. Silver wrappers. If the truck was here I could diagnose it with DX2. You apparently can afford to have it properly diagnosed so with what I am being told the above procedure is what I would do. Also read the forums and find people who had a similar issue for reference.
Thanks... i will run a line from tank to pump.. thats really the response i was looking for and if this page would calculate usage.. you would see the countless hours i have spent reading these forums... might i add that i can afford to bring it to the shop but due to past experiences i cant afford the extra crap that gets invoiced and didnt really need to be replaced... thanks for your help i will reach back out and let you know the outcome...
Took it to the dealer and $800 worth of diagnostics later heres the "problem".. collar for the fuel pro was incorrect... $20 for the collar and $145 worth of labor... before i gave the okay i mentioned that i swapped the entire fuel pro and that's the collar that came with it.... so that was removed from the quote... now they're telling me the valves need adjusting and wanted to charge me $1800 ontop the $800 diagnostics... so my next job is to get the valves adjusted... besides the valve cover gasket what else should be replaced while im in there? And tips or precautions i neee to be cautious of while doing this job?
If I gave you instructions on how to properly perform a valve adjustment would you actually follow them? I gave you instructions on how to exactly pinpoint the issue you were having. Instead of bypassing the low pressure/suction of the system you wanted to know the resistance of the SCV? Now its the dealers fault because they couldn't find that YOU installed the incorrect part as quickly as you would have liked? You could have bypassed the entire filter housing in less than 5 minutes. Your valves probably do need adjusting and there is no way in hell they want $1800 just to perform a valve adjustment. Show me an invoice that says VALVE ADJUSTMENT ONLY $1800 and I will send you a $100 bill.
Well first of all I didn't install the incorrect part the collar that was on the davco 243 is the correct collar.. they looked over at an older hino with a older style collar and assumed my collar was wrong which it was not.. as far as the vavle adjustment goes that will be done by Thursday afternoon.... i did bypass the filter housing and it ran better, but wasn't consistent... once my valves are adjusted ill be bringing the truck back because i know for a fact that's not the reason for poor performance... now i removed the switch on the brake and jumped it and the truck ran hell of alot better but still isnt consistent... im going to have my secretary did up the invoice for that overhead adjustment... once i get that how about you keep the $100 bill and just let me drive wherever you are and let you help me figure out the issue??? 1 thing i did notice is if i set the cruise control at 55 it'll get to a point where its running smooth and quiet but as soon as i apply a little bit of acceleration i can feel the truck bog down...