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Need help 2008 Hino 7.6 with 91k miles and possible knock

Davmad619

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Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and just purchased a 2008 Hino 7.6 with 91k miles. I haven't picked up the truck yet but I've seen a video on it and to me it sounds like it has a knock to it. I know it might just be the video quality but I'm looking to drive this home and i don't want to tow it if possible. I just wanted to get some trained or familiar people that have heard this truck more than me. I'm posting a link to the video for anyone to listen to. I appreciate your help in advance!

 

Hino123

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It definitely has a knocking sound that changes with engine rpm. Could be a million different things. I personally would not drive it like that.
 

Davmad619

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Ya I purchased it and then realized it sounds like there's a knock. Its going to cost about $1000 to get it to a local shop since I bought it out of town. Not sure if I'll spend more on a repair or towing and repair. Just trying to make the best choice possible.
 

Treadmill

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Ya I purchased it and then realized it sounds like there's a knock. Its going to cost about $1000 to get it to a local shop since I bought it out of town. Not sure if I'll spend more on a repair or towing and repair. Just trying to make the best choice possible.
Probably would be cheaper to have the work done in the area where the truck is located.
 

Davmad619

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Talked to a mechanic and he's going to check it out before it leaves the lot he said he didn't think it was an engine knock but who knows. I'm not super familiar with anything larger than a pickup.
 

Hino123

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The 2008-2010’s had a decent fuel knock at 1000 rpm’s when cold and the injectors were on the way out. Even with good injectors they usually had a slight knock. That sounds like possibly rod knock. They are kind of the weak link on the JO8E engines. I would remove the oil filter and cut it open and inspect for debris. If you find debris I would not drive it. When the connecting rod bushings fail the rod comes through the block on the lh side. If you catch it early you can replace the bushings. If not a block is expensive. That’s if it is a rod knock. My crystal ball is in the shop at the moment . So it a educated guess at best.
 
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Hino123

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On listen 3 it now sounds more likely a skip. Or maybe a dead hole.
 

Davmad619

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On listen 3 it now sounds more likely a skip. Or maybe a dead hole.
Is a dead hole an injector not working? I'm hoping whatever it is that it's not to expensive but I have a bad feeling my wallet will be hurting
 
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Hino123

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Dead hole is a cylinder that is not making power. Could be due to a valve, rings injection that sort of stuff
 

Davmad619

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Thank you everyone for the help I have someone looking at it tomorrow so hopefully I'll have a little more info.
 

Davmad619

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Dead hole is a cylinder that is not making power. Could be due to a valve, rings injection that sort of stuff
The mechanic said it runs good and shifts good but has a check engine light and said his scanner won't read the code. Doesn't the hino have it where the check engine light will flash and show the code?
 

Hino123

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Yes. On the lh side of the steering column there is a mode button, scroll through until you find “system check” then if the code is active it will say engine warning. Hold down or up for a couple of seconds and it will show the code. You will have to do it a couple times to get a feel for it. It’s hard to describe. I’m sure some has a video on YouTube or elsewhere.
 

Davmad619

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Ok thank you it says system check. I drove it home the other day 3 hours and I ran great. the knock sound was more prevalent at startup and was gone in a few minutes after warming up. It's at the hino dealer now we will see.
 

Hino123

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Yeah that's a fuel knock for sure. Good to hear it's running good otherwise.
 

Davmad619

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I called the dealer and they said that there's one dead cylinder at times and all the injectors need to be replaced. Plus the crankcase needs to be re sealed. Seems like with 91k miles that injectors shouldn't need to be replaced. They said to call tomorrow for the quote and I'm worried it's going to out cost the value of the truck
 
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Hino123

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What were the codes? PM me the vin and i can check warranty history. Depending on the region of the truck and the fuel used it very well may need injectors, Is the hard skip intermittent at times?
 

Davmad619

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I'll PM you. That haven't told me a whole lot I called them a few hours ago and the guy was reading off the chart that the tech left. He told me to call tomorrow for a quote.
 

Davmad619

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He said it was throwing a p2002 which he said was a misfire, they also said the dpr system was out but there's a campaign going on and it will be replaced for free. Not really sure what it is or how expensive it is but happy its free.
 
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Hino123

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The DPR is roughly $3000 with 2 gaskets all bolts and maybe a temp sensor, they should also update your ecm software and adjust your exhaust brake after the repair is performed. It sounds like the cam housing is leaking as well,. Warranty pays 5.3 hours for a cam-housing reseal plus parts. I charge 8 hours and that includes a valve adjustment. If you are just doing injectors we charge the customer 5 hours plus parts. So 6 injectors, 6 fuel supply lines, 6 o-rings 8 return line washers, 1 fuel return line, 1 valve cover gasket, 1 fuel return "x"bolt , and 1 fuel filter comes to roughly $4600 in parts give or take. These are old prices. If you are re-sealing the cam-housing add some misc , a cam housing gasket, 7 rocker-shaft bolts and some anaerobic to the parts quote. It will not allow me to pull up past info from the portal. Leaking fuel injectors could cause and is in fact a leading cause of DPR filter failure. If you could get a print out of the balance rates when the truck is up to operating temp and a list of codes I could possibly help further. It sounds like they are giving you a accurate diagnosis. It can be hard to swallow a 6000 repair bill though I'm sure.
 
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