MotorKote Lubricant

Turtle

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All motor oil additives do exactly the same thing - lighten your wallet.

There is no free lunch and there are no cures in a can. See BobIsTheOilGuy. Performing regularly scheduled maintenance with quality manufacturer-recommended products will see to it that you get all your truck can give you.

You'll hear and read where people say things like, "I've used it for 2 years and have had no problems," which really means, "My engine didn't explode, therefore ergo it works, and not only that, it works great!" which is an extreme example of an illusory corollary as it proves nothing.

Motokote will flat void a warranty, tho. Have an engine problem and when the oil is tested, if it contains an unapproved additive, there ya go. Lots of examples of that to be found on the net.

Motorkote contains chlorinated napthalene, which is basically Chlorox and mothballs. It's a waxy insulator, but is corrosive.

Duralube, Slick50 and others are all the same thing. Here's an interesting read:
Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives
It has a link to the FTC search page so you can see other brands and judge for yourself.
 

Desperado

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had a tec tell me one time if additives work as good as they claim he'd be out of a job
 

paullud

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I used their fuel additive when I has having trouble with starting my van, it had a noticeable difference but as soon as I stopped using it the problem came back, it turns out the injectors were sticking. As for engine oil additive I use Lucas which is 100% petroleum.

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Turtle

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If you use a good quality oil in the first place, and perform regular oil changes, why on Earth would you use Lucas? There are no additives in Lucas (it's basically straight 70 brightstock with no additives whatsoever), and it's the additives in the host oil which break down, so using Lucas offers nothing to the oil. At least the el cheapo STP Oil Treatment adds some ZDDP to give the oil a very slight nudge up, but even that's a waste if you change the oil when it's supposed to be changed. Spend your money on a quality oil and filter.
 

Camper

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All motor oil additives do exactly the same thing - lighten your wallet.

There is no free lunch and there are no cures in a can. See BobIsTheOilGuy. Performing regularly scheduled maintenance with quality manufacturer-recommended products will see to it that you get all your truck can give you.

You'll hear and read where people say things like, "I've used it for 2 years and have had no problems,"

That's my attitude, in a nutshell with respect to additives, in general. Plus if they worked as well as advertised, I doubt the makers would be spending nearly as much as they do heavily promoting the product in the first place.







Posted with my Droid EO Forum App
 

mrgoodtude

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Teflon and other additives can get stuck to sludge deposits already present on your sump screen.
The little screen that sucks the oil from the bottom of your motor to spray life's blood to the top of your engine where you really need it, in short it clogs your arteries.
I change my oil every 12k without fail and my oil analysis shines like a new motor every time at 600K.
I would recommend anyone buying a used vehicle with senior miles to up the oil changes with a quality detergent oil and quality filter.
Learned this from a "elder statesman";)
 

jjoerger

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My father was a mechanic his entire life. He always said that if these additives were any good the big oil companies would put it in the oil and make the money off of it. His recommendation was to always buy a quality oil and filter and change them on a regular basis.
The only additive we use is Howes Meaner Cleaner. We get a half a mile per gallon bump in our fuel mileage when we run it.
 

chefdennis

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When i was a doing the chef deal daily, I hated making crust..and since i hated it, i wasn't any good at it...one day i had a chicken pot pie made by a chef in her late 70's..the crust was great and light and golden brown... I complimented her on it and she said thanks but its nothing..I cut her off before she could finish and proceeded t tell her about how lousy my crust was and how i hated making it...well when i was done, she asked me to follower her to the kitchen, where she handed me a plastic cover off of a "Pillsbury Freezer Crust"....

Companies spend millions on research and devolopment..when they relase most of their products, there is much need to try and improve on them....Oil is like that crust...use a good one and you don't need to mess around with anything else....

And before it starts, yes there are many homemade pie crust that are better the a store bought one...i concede that...
 

highway star

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But, but, but... Lucas "stabilizes" your oil! I mean, that's gotta be good, right?

LOL...
 

existenz

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All motor oil additives do exactly the same thing - lighten your wallet.

There is no free lunch and there are no cures in a can. See BobIsTheOilGuy. Performing regularly scheduled maintenance with quality manufacturer-recommended products will see to it that you get all your truck can give you.

You'll hear and read where people say things like, "I've used it for 2 years and have had no problems," which really means, "My engine didn't explode, therefore ergo it works, and not only that, it works great!" which is an extreme example of an illusory corollary as it proves nothing.

Motokote will flat void a warranty, tho. Have an engine problem and when the oil is tested, if it contains an unapproved additive, there ya go. Lots of examples of that to be found on the net.

Motorkote contains chlorinated napthalene, which is basically Chlorox and mothballs. It's a waxy insulator, but is corrosive.

Duralube, Slick50 and others are all the same thing. Here's an interesting read:
Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives
It has a link to the FTC search page so you can see other brands and judge for yourself.

I'm impressed. Normally, in my job, I am having to explain this to people.

Motorkote claims to not have any chlorine, but that could also be lawyer speak for not having liquid chlorine poured into it.
Virgin oil analysis, as shown on bob is the oil guy forums, have shown levels of up to 28% chlorine in motorkote.
Here is a good article from amsoil on what long chain chlorinated paraffin oil's do, once heated up and exposed to moisture.

Similarly, here is a good article, also by amsoil, on why the timken machine motorkote uses is not a feasible test approved by the ATSM (which motorkote claims it is).

Motorkote depends on the TBN of a quality motor oil (total base number) to neutralize the acid or oxidation it creates. You can, and likely will, notice some improvement in fuel economy, but its value is lost in the $100 a gallon of motrkote and the corrosion of your motor.
ALso, it is NOT suited for high temp use. Another reason why the timken machine is a joke.
Take a blow torch and heat up the bearing, then see how motorkote responds.

You can pour clorox bleach on that bearing and get a similar show to motorkote.

As was also stated about Lucas, its a group 1 bright stock. Its filler basically.
You have 5 groups of oil. Group 3 is your typical conventional, although some synthetics are made from group 3 using hydrocracking.
Group 4 is your "true" synthetic, also called PAO's, or Polyalphaolefin
Wiki link

With lucas you are essentially putting in a gear oil, into your motor, that is made up of parrifinic oils that are low shear stable and little to no true additives.
Virgin oil analysis of lucas can also be found on bob is the oil guy forums, or done your self for $20 or so.

IF you want, or need to thicken up your oil, then add a % of SAE 50-60 to an old motor. All that is being done is putting a bandaid on a true mechanical problem.
Plus raising the viscosity of a 15w-40 to fix a problem with worn rings, bearings or oil leaks, only make the problem worse over time.
I have spoken to many drivers who have gone from 2 gallons of lucas, to 4 gallons per oil change because , like a crack addict, they need that FIX.

IT is impossible to STABILIZE someones oil, with someone elses additive, unless that OIL is a group 5 (search for lubrizol, whom makes all the true oil add packs for most oil companies) that is added at the time of blending.
Lucas will always separate from a motor oil given time.

Lucas, and others, can not truly BLEND and mix with a motor oil, there for it can not stabilize or improve it.

Plus, and this is my fav, if it's good for transmissions, and gear boxes, do you really want it in your motor?

As someone stated, if it worked, Mobil or shell would of bought it.

Shell used to own STP and another additive. They have since gotten rid of them.

Sorry for the long rant, and the repeat of info that was said.
Just figured I would add in some articles for those interested.

I do marketing for Shell rotella, on the Rotella road show, so I talk about this exact subject daily.

If for some reason any has questions about coolants or motor oils, regardless of the manufacturer (im no in sales) feel free to pm!

Either way Im impressed with the responses I saw in here!
 
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CUZIN ERN

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Pardon me, I do not recall this thread, would you please be a good guy and shoot me a copy reply on same ..?
 

greasytshirt

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IT is impossible to STABILIZE someones oil, with someone elses additive, unless that OIL is a group 5 (search for Lubrizol, whom makes all the true oil add packs for most oil companies) that is added at the time of blending.
Lucas will always separate from a motor oil given time.


I do marketing for Shell rotella, on the Rotella road show, so I talk about this exact subject daily.

If for some reason any has questions about coolants or motor oils, regardless of the manufacturer (im no in sales) feel free to pm!

Either way Im impressed with the responses I saw in here!

Afton Chemical affiliated here. I used to run the Timken 4-ball and block/ring (forget what it's called now) test rigs. You're correct. Nothing but a properly designed lubrication package passes the Timken tests, especially when run for double the weight / twice the time. A bottle of Lucas would allow those parts to get smoked in an instant.

I also used to build Cummins M-11 engines for the high soot crosshead wear test. Nothing quite like purposefully putting together an engine wrong (altered cam timing) so it soots up the oil very badly. During the later days of my stay there, we were experimenting with EGR (just like everyone else), and learned that an M-11 block would line-bore itself from main cap walk when confronted with 52lbs of boost all the time.

For everyone else: Modern motor oils are subjected to the most ridiculous tests you can imagine. Mack E7 engine held at 98% throttle, 1200 rpm for a month? Yep, diesel oils were subjected to that. So many others, I don't even remember.
 

Skyline

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Seeing that greasytshirt revived this thread, let me ask this question. I have 940 000 miles on my MBE 900 (926) and have always nursed this engine and it is in tip-top shape. The last few years I have used Delvac with a gallon of Lucas, but a friend of mine, who has been a mechanic on these Merc engines for the last 8 years, told me that I should use full synthetic oil only and no additive. Any opinions or advice?
 

davekc

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I would think synthetic or a blend would be better than any kind of additive. Since they have reformulated most oils, don't really see a need for additives unless the manufacture is calling for them.
 

Skyline

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Thanks Dave. I think spending the extra money on my engine will be worth it. Thanks for the reference to the oil guy, Dan, great info.
 
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