Zoli
Veteran Expediter
What is bad?Can you give us some numbers?
08 Hino fuel milge ???
- Thread starter Zoli
- Start date
What is bad?Can you give us some numbers?
EagleRiverWI
Seasoned Expediter
If you are a single driver, don't be in a hurry to go into debt on an 08. I have an 03 Freightliner at 9.3 MPG and hope I can last in this business until its paid off in September. If I would have bought a new truck I would be bankrupt by now. Take your time and keep reading on this site to see how many people survive in this business.
I did a lot of research on Hino's before we bought our 2007 338 model.
They come with a 4.10 rear axle standard and we had ours changed to
a 3.91 big difference in better performance for Mpg. I would ask other Hino
owners with autos what they think.
I personally would stay away from an auto in a Hino because they do burn more
fuel than a five speed. We get around 9.5 to just a little over 10 with ours depending
on hill's etc. The Hino does lack in power to be the first to the top of the hill but it more
than makes-up the difference in better mpg. We carry around 6,500lbs most of the time so
we never need a bigger motor, and right now we are very happy with the Mpg we are getting.
garman
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PantherPower
Seasoned Expediter
I have an '08 Hino 338 with the Allison 5-speed automatic transmission and have 4.88:1 gearing. It came with 5.57 which put me at 2500rpm at 70 (redline is 2600!) It also has a 96" sleeper. No extra weight like a generator, liftgate, toolboxes, etc. Even with the gear change, I am very upset at the fuel economy and power this big, white turd has. The gears brought the rpm's down which would increase the economy if it didn't create a new problem; The engine has to work so hard on the slightest of grades that it sucks more fuel. I recently had a run to California and had a 20mph headwind. The load was 1790 pounds and the cruise was set at 62 (1900 rpm). I got 5.3mpg over 1100 miles! I couldn't hardly break 55 unless I downshifted to 4th but then the rpm's were back up to 2500.
I came out of a '07 M-2106 with the Cat C-9/Allison and I thought 8.5 was kinda bad (was in a 2000 FL-70 Cat 3126/6-speed that got 10 before that). The Hino just doesn't have the horsepower to move it's own weight around, let alone maxed out at 33,000. I am trading it in on a new M-2112 that has 100 more ponies, more bells and whistles, and costs $10,000 less.
On a side note, I have had several problems and only have 30,000 miles on it. Anything that is engine-related HAS to go to a Hino dealer. The problem? I have had several times where I had to pass one by because they were 9 to 5 and then when I did find one that was open, no Hino tech on duty! I'm O/S now waiting on what I think will be an injector pump. Took 4 days for the diagnosis. They pulled the code and it had to be e-mailed to Hino for the engineers to decide what to do. $92.65 to pull the code. They say they don't know if it will be warranty or not until the engineers get back to them! Then and only then will they ORDER A PART! From Japan probably. More down time but they expect their payment alright. The first issue was it rattled so bad I thought it was out of oil. Valve lash needed to be adjusted early. Due at 50,000 but I was at 12. Not warrantied. $375. Now the thing won't go over 55 (empty even) and used 72 gallons to drive 368 miles. Check engine light is on but they don't know if it's covered??? At 30,000 miles??? What good is this warranty?
I will NEVER, EVER, EVER get another Hino. Well, if it can be ordered with a REAL engine then I would. Think about this: Toyota puts a more powerful engine in a Tundra!
I came out of a '07 M-2106 with the Cat C-9/Allison and I thought 8.5 was kinda bad (was in a 2000 FL-70 Cat 3126/6-speed that got 10 before that). The Hino just doesn't have the horsepower to move it's own weight around, let alone maxed out at 33,000. I am trading it in on a new M-2112 that has 100 more ponies, more bells and whistles, and costs $10,000 less.
On a side note, I have had several problems and only have 30,000 miles on it. Anything that is engine-related HAS to go to a Hino dealer. The problem? I have had several times where I had to pass one by because they were 9 to 5 and then when I did find one that was open, no Hino tech on duty! I'm O/S now waiting on what I think will be an injector pump. Took 4 days for the diagnosis. They pulled the code and it had to be e-mailed to Hino for the engineers to decide what to do. $92.65 to pull the code. They say they don't know if it will be warranty or not until the engineers get back to them! Then and only then will they ORDER A PART! From Japan probably. More down time but they expect their payment alright. The first issue was it rattled so bad I thought it was out of oil. Valve lash needed to be adjusted early. Due at 50,000 but I was at 12. Not warrantied. $375. Now the thing won't go over 55 (empty even) and used 72 gallons to drive 368 miles. Check engine light is on but they don't know if it's covered??? At 30,000 miles??? What good is this warranty?
I will NEVER, EVER, EVER get another Hino. Well, if it can be ordered with a REAL engine then I would. Think about this: Toyota puts a more powerful engine in a Tundra!
Wingnut
Seasoned Expediter
We have a 2008 HINO that's a 6 speed. It gets decent MPG, around 8MPG. Our lead driver didn't like the truck and thought it got aweful fuel mileage, but he also had a lead foot which can greatly affect the MPG in any vehicle. We actually don't see much difference between our '08 and our 05's and 07's. We do have one '05 that seems to get the best MPG out of all our trucks; right around 11MPG. We have yet to figure out why, since all our trucks are 6 speeds, but we're NOT knocking it.
I got a 07 with a 5.33 rear end along with the allison auto,now for around 700$ hino wil swap for a 4.11 rear end.I was wondering if anyone has either set up and what kinda mpg they avg,i know there's alot of other factors.I think the 4.11 is the way to go,then again maybe taller tires.
PantherPower
Seasoned Expediter
I would't advise a gear that high (numerically lower). You will have to get out and push. Check out this gear ratio calculator:
Gear-Speed Calculator Program
The final drive ratio of your transmission (as is mine) is .75. Put in all of the numbers and then play around with the rear end ratio. Look at the rpm's at the given speeds. Available ratios are numerous, but 3.73, 3.90, 4.11, 4.33, 4.63, 4.88, 5.13, 5.29,
5.57 are the most common. 4.11 will drop your rpms so low that you will be out of the powerband.
Tire width 295mm
Aspect ratio 75
Rim diameter 22.5
Gear ratio (trans highest gear) .75
Differential ratio x.xx
Mine was changed to 4.88 which makes me crawl up even the smallest of grades but the rpms are lower an the flats.
Gear-Speed Calculator Program
The final drive ratio of your transmission (as is mine) is .75. Put in all of the numbers and then play around with the rear end ratio. Look at the rpm's at the given speeds. Available ratios are numerous, but 3.73, 3.90, 4.11, 4.33, 4.63, 4.88, 5.13, 5.29,
5.57 are the most common. 4.11 will drop your rpms so low that you will be out of the powerband.
Tire width 295mm
Aspect ratio 75
Rim diameter 22.5
Gear ratio (trans highest gear) .75
Differential ratio x.xx
Mine was changed to 4.88 which makes me crawl up even the smallest of grades but the rpms are lower an the flats.
Thanks for the insight,i won't be driving it,so i won't be able to play around with it.I have a 07 frtline with the mercd engine and the 6spd manual,i haven't had any complaints about get up hills in that one.I think it has the 5.57 rear end with a manual 6spd and the engines 260hp don't know the torque or at what rpm there rating the torque at.I have til the end of the yr to deside on the 4.11 switch,we don't get out west much so it wil depend how it does on the east of sippi grades.
This one is for Cummins engines. I like their implementation. It can be used for a rough estimate with others using the ISX as a C15 similarity for instance.
Cummins PowerSpec Gearing Recommendations
Cummins PowerSpec Gearing Recommendations
Jefferson3000
Expert Expediter
Sounds like a pretty smart guy.
Our 2007 Hino came with a 4.11 rear gear and we had it changed to a 3.91 and we get close to 10 Mpg depending on conditions and how much we carry.
We have 170K on our unit and it's been almost trouble free, other than a couple of minor repaires.
Garman
Make a complaint with your Dealership Salesman, we have had our Dealership salesman call his district service manager and we had a $190 service bill refunded back to us because the Hino Dealership down south we stopped at ripped us off for a computer diagnosis bill on a dirty fuel filter, they didn't even repair our problem. One mechanic even told my driver he was trained to work on Hino's?
Our Hino dealership has treated us like gold any time we need help.
Your first problem is the auto trans they will get crappier Mpg in any commercial truck along with your high rear gear. Plus the auto in the Hino = louisy performance. We bought our 2007 Hino with a 6 speed and changed the rear gear to a 3.91 before we picked it up. We get on the average around 9.5 to just a little over 10 mpg depending on conditions etc.
You should of done your research before you bought your Hino. Everybody knows they have average performance. Most dealerships will not do anything for repaires unless it's authorized by a district service manager. At least you have a 3 year warranty Freightliner would of cost me around $4,000 for the same kind of coverage and 11% interest compared to 6.5 we received from Hino.
Garman
PantherPower
Seasoned Expediter
I DID do my research. I DROVE an IDENTICAL unit for a MONTH AND A HALf and got 10mpg and felt the power was acceptable. I get my own and get a reject.
District manager hell, I have the Senior Vice President of Maintenance and Repairs, North America looking into it. It still doesn't recover lost revenue, motel, etc.
By the way, broke down again with the same problem. 150 miles after I left the 2nd dealership that worked on it. Went to the third dealership today who also charged me $112.00 to pull the code and tell me it could be "anything" causing this. Then he asked me when's the last time I changed the fuel filter (even though it showed on his work order it was done 600 miles ago. Enough with the fuel filters!!! Well, nothing was done except the codes being cleared. Got 5 miles out of it and guess what? Broke down again. Lost the last 1000 miles of the load.
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