DT466E Injectors, Valve adjustment, and filter housing complete. 3

BobWolf

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
. After you snug down the jam nut torque them to 20 ft lbs.

Valve lash on the DT 466 and DT 466E is .025” twenty five thousandths of an inch both intake and exhaust.
Torque on the jam nut is 20 Foot LBS. preferably with the engine cold but that's not overly crucial.
As I said before turn the engine over by hand and make sure the valves move freely, open and close correctly, and will not come into contact with the piston.


PAY ATTENTION!!!
8. RECHECK YOUR VALE LASH AFTER TORQUING, AND TURNING OVER THE ENGINE BY HAND If its off more than 0.005 readjust the valve. And repeat engine turnover and check until you get it right.
If you cannot get the setting to hold this means you have a worn valve train component. Lifter, pushrod, rocker arm, valve spring assembly or valve. Its also possible you have a bad cam. In any case, a proper repair is required before proceeding.

9. If everything checks out reassemble the engine in the reverse order you disassembled it.


Fuel Filter, hand primer, high pressure lines and housing.

1. Remove the fuel filter and housing. Its bolted to the engine block usually on the left side,

2. Remove the metal fuel lines from the fuel filter housing, fuel pump, and fuel rail.

3. Inspect the lines for rust and damage, replace if needed.

4. Replace the rubber crush seals. They are available after market sometimes much cheaper than the dealership, again likely from the OEM supplier.

5. Strip the fuel filter housing down to the aluminum casting remove all fittings, clean the housing thoroughly.
Paint if needed to avoid corrosion.

6. Clean inspect and reassemble the pre filter aka rock catcher, screen filter. If the screen is not damaged and can be cleaned its good to reuse. Replace the O ring as they will draw air into the fuel system.

I prefer to use Permatex red high temp sealant for this application as I’ve had good luck with it. I use it on all fittings and hand primer. Remember to replace all rubber O rings and seals.




PAY ATTENTION.
7. Replace the hand primer pump If equipped, it looks like a shotgun shell. Some years do not have one. it’s a part that costs less than $ 20.00 it will save you the cost of new injectors plus your core charge. Aliant and most rebuilders wont warrantee the injector if damaged due to a dry start or. lack of fuel.
The injectors are damaged when the tips don’t have fuel to lubricate, cool, and cushion the opening and closing. This damages the tips and nozzles due to the extreme pressure and force on the nozzle.

8. Check the check ball under the cap that usually looks like a big Phillips head screw. If the ball doses not appear worn it should cover the hole in the casting or have a flat spot it should be reusable. Replace the Teflon o ring.

9 Reinstall / replace the fittings if worn or damaged use Permatex red sealer.

10. Bolt the filter housing to the engine block reinstall the fuel lines.

11. Fill a NEW fuel filter with fresh fuel, I recommend you add Howe’s lubricator 10 oz to 50 gallons to the fuel tank and fuel can before filling the filter and starting the engine. Don’t worry, an over treat wont harm the engine. I run Howe’s year round and I have 336,919 miles on my 11 year old injectors.

12. Reinstall the fuel line. If you have a quick connect style replace the O ring on the coupler as this tends to develop a flat spot due to engine vibration, and draw air causing fuel starving. I back it up with a couple plastic zip ties to keep the coupling still so it doesn’t hammer a flat spot as quickly as without.

13. Use the hand primer to wet down the injectors by pressing down on the pump until you feel resistance, and bleed the air out of the Schrader valve repeat until you have only fuel coming out. If all you get is air or air and fuel after several attempts go on to the next step.
14. With the injector harness disconnected and using a heavy duty battery charger / booster starter make sure your batteries are fully charged and crank over the engine with the starter and continue to bleed the air from the Schrader valve repeat until you have only fuel coming out.
As I warned above about dry starting you can damage or destroy your injectors and void your warrantee, so make sure the injector harness at the valve cover is disconnected

When ALL THE AIR is removed from the fuel and the engine is reassembled check your work its almost time for the moment of truth.

Start your engine. Its normal for some smoke when you first start as there is usually unburned fuel in the cylinder, turbo and exhaust. There is usually very small amounts of air that needs to work its way out of the fuel rail.
LET THE ENGINE CORRECT ITSELF DO NOT GIVE IT MORE THROTLE.
If rough idle does not correct its self within a fifteen to thirty seconds you likely need to bleed the fuel system, something was missed or done incorrectly with the repair, or some other issue is at work.
Allow the truck to idle at least 10 to fifteen minutes and take it for a test drive. Drive easy for the first few minutes to assure all is happy in the fuel system. Pay attention to performance and engine sounds.
Its normal to have an amber / yellow engine light after an injector job due to priming with the injectors unplugged have a shop or dealership pull and clear codes. A RED ENGINE LIGHT IS TROUBLE

That's it, a walk in the park.

Just remember the obvious if the engine ran before you took it apart it should run the same preferably better than before.

Good luck
Bob Wolf.
 

davekc

Senior Moderator
Staff member
Fleet Owner
Nice set of posts. :eek:
Attention to detail is everything when doing these types of repairs.
 
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