DT466E Injectors, Valve adjustment, and filter housing complete. 1

BobWolf

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I posted a partial a few weeks ago I finally have the complete tune up project.

todays post is 3 pieces too many characters.

So here it is. If anyone wants pics. let me know I can E mail them to you if you have g-mail.

Enjoy.

Bob Wolf.

O.K. First lets get the legal and the basics out of the way … Yeah its wordy.

1. Plain English warning.
By doing this repair you assume any and all risk involved during and as a result of taking on this project. If you screw up, do something stupid something goes wrong and you damage your or anyone else’s property, or injure or kill yourself or anyone else this includes every one and everything around you. If you have less than desirable results or the finished job doesn’t work at all or results in additional mechanical problems even if you follow all the directions to the letter it is on you. One more thing it is your responsibility to check with the dealership to make sure the procedures, specs, and part numbers are correct as some variation dose exist between model years.

2. Use of brand name.
I am not marketing or endorsing any specific product or vendor nor am I receiving payment for the mention of their product. However some components are only available through specific companies or, I have found to have best results with or simply known better by their retail product name for example WD40 is more to the point than silicone spray.

Key Words.
PAY ATTENTION this means if you don’t you can be injured, killed, or destroy an expensive part.

IMPORTANT I will often use this if some detail needs to be paid attention to If you don’t you will at least waste time energy and money redoing the job as it wont work right and possibly damage something. The rest of the repair I expect you to have and use common sense. Positions are given proper as if sitting behind the wheel. So right side is passenger left side driver front and rear should be self explanatory.
T.D.C. Top Dead Center the highest the piston will travel in the cylinder bore. There are 2 TDC compression both valves closed compression stroke, and exhaust intake closed and exhaust open I will leave TDC as is to keep things simple.
B.D.C. Bottom Dead Center the lowest point the piston will travel in its stroke into the engine block.

B.T.D.C. Before Top Dead Center the area between B.D.C. and T.D.C. Typically during the compression stroke and
Exhaust stroke as the piston travels upward.

A.T.D.C. After Top Dead Center. The area between T.D.C. and B.D.C. as the piston travels down into the block.

B.T.D.C. and A.T.D.C are described in degrees of crank shaft rotation.

THE PROCEEDURES ARE ASSUMING THE ENGINE IS STOCK, RUNNING #2 HIGHWAY DIESEL OR ULTRA LOW SULFER DIESEL AND NO AFTERMARKET POWER ADDERS.

If you are unsure about your experience or skill level take it to a shop. If you do hire a shop to make the repair this should help you understand why it takes 4 to 8 hours to do a injector change.

Bad injector/s. Rarely do they all fail at once usually one or two at a time lack of power, blue, black or white, smoke, poor mileage, rich smelling exhaust that smells like unburned diesel fuel, hard starting, especially If you find yourself having to plug in the block heater just to get it to start even on warm days.

Diagnosing injectors. OK probably the best way to diagnose injectors is a contribution test engines with HEUI type injectors need to be plugged in to a tool for this test. How to do a field test? Simple. First find out what the exhaust manifold temp range for your engine should be. on a cold day preferably or at least first thing in the morning leaving the truck unplugged use an infra red thermometer and take temp readings along the exhaust manifold. Read each cylinder port and write it down. Start the truck and let the engine warm up for 15min. to ½ hr. Check the temps at each exhaust port every 5 or so minutes write the time and temps down so you can create a trend. The cylinders that read colder or hotter than the rest are likely bad. Now, if the hot cylinder is in range that may be the only good injector. That is why you want to know the exhaust manifold temp range. Usually cold no fuel hot over fueling.

Next step is test the electrical circuit lat the injector harness at the valve cover. Next use an ohm meter and test through the harness to test the internal wire harness, and each injector connector and injector solenoid. This will help narrow down a potential problem in the engine or chassis wire harness you have four pins right and left bottom right and bottom left are ground. Left set of pins cover 1,2,3, right set of pins cover 4,5,6 If memory serves me correctly # 1 and #4 are the ones next to ground. If you don’t zero out on any injector the problem is likely an injector, bad harness, oil flooded connector or disconnected injector either way you might be doing some surgery.
If you have the tools, preferably a clean dry place to pull the cab into, most importantly if you can follow directions and pay attention to details and change spark plugs you can do it yourself. However, if you’re not sure its best to take it to a shop.
Now, if the injectors and harness all zero out you are chasing the wire harness and connectors.

You will need.. a socket set, screwdrivers, scrapers, a pry bar set, drop light, a small hand pump and small diameter tubing 1/8 inch O.D., multi meter tester comes in handy. Brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, Diesel injector cleaner, engine degreaser, soft cleaning brushes, a roll of Scott brand blue shop towels are recommended 3M blue scratch free scotch Brites, Metal coffee cans, at least 2 55 gallon drum liners, news print, A work bench helps allot, safe place to keep new injectors, your cores, the ECM, and valve cover gasket.

Important. FIRE EXTINGQUISHER an INCH POUND torque wrench AND FOOT POUND torque wrench bar / beam, dial, or micrometer / clicker its your preference they all serve the same purpose. Injectors and valve components are torque specific. blue scratch free Scotch Brites,

From my understanding D.T. / HT and Cat medium duty engines are similar newer 2004 and newer HT 530 engines the displacement was upped to 570 cubic inches and now have 4 valves per cylinder so check on the process. The 466E in my truck dose not have a Jake Brake If you have one check with a dealership.

I recommend a thorough engine cleaning before starting this repair.
Remember your 7 P’s Proper Prior Planning or Prep-work Prevents **** Poor Performance.

New vs. Reman.
Renew Reman injectors from the IH dealership $350.00, new at least 500.00, $200.00 core min 3 weeks before I get core charge back IF the cores pass Internationals inspection and only a one year warrantee…..
OR, remanufactured $225.00, $100.00 core, I give them cores in reasonable shape, I get my core charge back as long as the tips aren’t damaged and they are in reasonable shape, same one year warrantee and the vendor has a an excellent reputation. So, off the top, you save 600.00. Aliant is the manufacturer of HEUI injectors for CAT and IH most likely everyone else out there. The only difference between Aliant and OEM is the box.

Injector types..
Split shot vs. single shot.
OK, the easiest way to explain this is a single shot injector delivers all of the fuel charge at once when the piston reaches T.D.C. and a split shot delivers a small amount between 2 and 10 deg. B.T.D.C. this varies between engines and engine speed. The results and benefits of Split shot injectors on stokc applications.
1) Smother idle 2) Lower emissions and less smoke 3) better mileage.

O.K. lets get to work.

1. Disconnect batteries I recommend both hot and neutral.

2. Disconnect the Engine position /cam sensor front right just above the crank pulley, and alternator, turbo and air cleaner and coolant temp sensor in the head all were right side of engine. This harness is also attached to the map sensor should be in the valve cover, A/C compressor, top of engine. On the left side of the engine, oil ICP sensor on the fuel rail, HPOP sensor on the back of the High pressure pump, engine oil pressure in the block, and air pressure sensor.
Follow the harness and check for other sensors that might be on your truck. note or photograph the correct wire locations most leads will differ in size but just to cover your self and you don’t risk damaging the wire assembly, frying the sensors and/ or ECM or burning your truck to the ground. Disconnect the fuel injector wiring harness on the valve cover. When you get done you should be able to lay the entire wire harness off to the side of the engine bay out of the way. If needed disconnect and remove the ECM
Important..
Some engines the ECM is bolted to the valve cover mine was bolted to the block out of the way. If its on the cover carefully remove the connector. The wire harness is bolted into the ECM connector so you might gave a cover to remove to get to the bolt. Remember to use a light hand with the ECM and put in in a safe place, if you have access to pink antistatic bubble wrap even better. Protect your ECM that is a screw up that will cost you at least $4,000.00.

3. Remove the doghouse/rear engine cover to gain access to the rear of the engine you will have to remove the jump seat and shift controller if you run an Allison

4. Disconnect the fuel and oil feed line from the fuel rail you don’t have to remove the drain plugs especially if they aren’t leaking and are in tight. I never saw much difference between pulling the plugs and just the lines. You might have a little less fuel if you pull the fuel regulator off the back of the fuel rail. Ether way you will have to pump fuel out of the cylinders. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel filter. If you have a quick connect replace the O ring. By the way, if the fuel rail gasket is leaking now is the time to replace it. Remove the plumbing for the turbo both sides, and the snorkel for the air system from the air cleaner place it aside. Remove the air cleaner and anything else in the way.

5. Squeeze the tabs on the pass through connector on the valve cover and push the connector into the valve cover. Otherwise you will destroy the internal injector wire harness. If it doesn’t completely enter the valve cover don’t force it as long as its loose it will fall clear when you lift the valve cover.

If you have all the plumbing and electrical out of the way we can begin surgery.

6. Loosen the valve cover and leave the bolts in the cover until you can place them through a piece of cardboard to make sure they go back where they belong. You will notice at least a couple are different lengths and or hold a bracket. Work from the center out first crack them loose and then after cracking them all loose work them out. The valve cover doubles as the intake manifold and it is heavy and awkward so have a helper inside the truck and pass it to them. Be careful so you don’t drop it on the injectors or the valve train. Remember the 55 gallon liners? Place it on the liner with some newsprint and wrap it up to soak up oil and keep crud out of the cover.

PAY ATTENTION Now is the time to carefully remove the valve cover gasket its reusable but make sure its clean and in good shape. Any crud, wear, or damage oil will run into the intake valves you will burn oil, have performance issues, and can result in an engine runaway that will kill the engine. After cleaning place it aside.

You should now have the injectors and the upper valve train staring at you. (Feeling paranoid?)

7. Injectors have two bolts unbolt the front bolt and rear alternating back and forth every few half turns until out
PAY ATTENTION DO NOT DROP THE BOLTS INTO THE MOTOR IF THEY FALL INTO THE AIR TUBES YOU WILL BE PULLING THE HEAD. Also do not loose them as they are dealer only items. Check them to make sure they aren’t necked (stretching) out .

8. Using the dealer only special injector puller shown, (yep it’s a small pry bar) apply firm steady pressure but, not too heavy handed under the injector hold down bracket have a hand over the top of the injector to catch is as it pops out.
When it comes up, quickly remove the injector and put it into a catch can drain the fuel and oil into it. The less oil and fuel in the cylinder from the injector the better. Besides you don’t want to contaminate the oil if you can avoid it

9. PAY ATTENTION Inspect the injectors to make sure they have the combustion seal ether copper or stainless steel also make sure they are not missing the tips If you have damaged tips find someone with a bore scope and make sure the tip or pieces are not in the combustion chamber trapped in the piston or between the piston and cylinder wall. If this is so, you are probably looking at an inframe. Sorry….. If luck is on your side and the tip snapped off during removal, (yes this dose happen) and is lying on the piston you will need the injector cup or the head pulled.
FREE WARNING I will give you a free warning the most important part is you stop and deal with it. If you brush it off you will destroy your engine, enough said.


10. Most International engines the head is flat and the combustion chamber is in the piston crown. So you basically have a bowl of fuel and oil to remove. PAY ATTENTION Use a small hand pump and small diameter tubing to remove the oil/fuel otherwise, you will lock the head and possibly destroy the engine. Air tubing for an aquarium/fish tank worked for me you might need to modify it to work with your hand pump.

11. Inspect the injector this will also give you an idea of the general health of the engine. Similar to the tale spark plugs tell you. A washed injector tip you might have a leaking head gasket,

12. Clean the injector tubes with a soft bristle brush I also used lacquer thinner and a scratch free Blue Scotch Brite they’re tough enough to clean the residue off the cups but wont scratch the injector cups. Cut off a section 1 inch by 1 inch and carefully work it in the cup with a screw driver the cup must be as clean as possible so you get a good seal. Wipe out the cup with a lint free rag soaked in lacquer thinner. I like and recommend cleaning parts with lacquer thinner because it evaporates without a residue. Most medium quality carburetor and brake cleaners are lacquer thinner. Save a few bucks and buy a gallon.

Bench cleaning the injector is pretty straightforward you don’t take the injector apart you are simply replacing the external O rings, visible carbon from the tip and crud from the body and seal surfaces.

If you have recently replaced any injectors, cash flow wont allow you to replace all of them at once and they pass a proper diagnosis, you can have them professionally cleaned at a diesel shop or if in excellent condition and are reasonably clean you can do a quick clean up and reseal yourself. In a pinch and if luck is in your favor you might be bale to get another few thousand miles on the old tired injectors by cleaning them. However you might also waste twenty bucks on seals and they don’t work or die tomorrow. Bottom line, it’s a craps shot. Yes, its better to replace them all at once and some vendors wont warrantee the replacements if you do a partial replacement. I have heard you can shim a weak injector and rebuild them yourself but to obtain the tools and internal parts is almost impossible. Add in the parts cost, time to rebuild, lack of a flow bench, and other tools, as expensive as they are its worth buying a remaned unit.

IMPORTANT This is not a rush job light hands are required. If you damage the Solenoid, body, nozzle or tip you can ruin the injector. Also keep a clean area for the injector as it is a lubricated close tolerance part. Have a padded box or suitable container with bubble wrap to avoid breakage.

Injector Cleanup and EXTERNAL seal replacement
I use Liqui Molly Diesel Purge to do a flush every 25,000 miles or when I change the fuel filter. I also used it in the bench cleaning.
PAY ATTENTION LIFE / SAFETY WARNING.
MAKE SURE YOU USE THIS CLEANER OUTSIDE AND WITH PLENTY OF VENTALATION THIS PORDUCT IS VERRY FLAMABLE AND VOLITILE. WEAR NITRILE GLOVES.

13. First remove the rubber Q rings and metal seal on the body with a small awl or pick set. Be careful not to scratch the oil and fuel galleries or drop the injector as you will have diesel and oil weeping out of the injector making it slick. I recommend laying the seals out in the order they came off the injector or photograph it so you reinstall them correctly.

14. First you use a razor knife to CAREFULLY scrape the carbon off the injector tip. Be careful so you don’t gouge the nozzle or tip it will help to soak the injector tip in cleaner before scraping. Next use a blue Scotch Brite to clean any remaining crud from the tip.

15. use a razor knife to remove the chamber seal start by scraping between the seal and injector body and then GENTLY pry the seal off be careful not to gouge the nozzle or tip. Note what material the chamber seal is. It will be either copper or stainless steel. Always replace this seal and make sure you use the same material or they wont seal right, and you will be redoing the job.

16. Use a magnifier a razor blade and pick set to knock loose any visible carbon do not force any tool into the between the tip and body, just gently scrape what you can and polish the body, tip and with a blue scotch brite.

17. Apply a thin coat of Marvel or gun oil to the tip and slide the new chamber seal onto the injector until it contacts the injector body. Its going to drag a little but if it feels like its sticking remove the seal and make sure the tip is clean or you can damage the tip or plug the injector. Make sure the seal bottoms out on the injector.

BAFORE INSTALLING THE INJECTORS BRING EACH CYLINDER TO T.D.C. AND CHECK FOR FUEL AND OIL IN EACH CYLINDER YOUR FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN YOU DESROYING YOUR ENGINE.
You wont get every last drop out you want to almost all of the raw fuel and oil out.

I recommend adjusting your valve lash before installing the injectors as its easier to manually turn over the engine and determine Top Dead Center.
Valve adjustment procedure is the same regardless of injectors being removed or installed.

Check with the dealership or injector vendor to confirm the proper torque for your new injectors.

Injector Install.

18. Apply a thin coat of marvel or gun oil to the injector body and o rings you only want enough so the O rings don’t snag and tear as you tighten them down.

19. Line up the injector with the connector the connector facing the rear DT466E or the direction the originals faced line up the bolt holes in the head with the bolt holes in the injector hold down bracket. And with firm steady downward HAND pressure set the injector into the cup and the nozzle/tip into the cylinder. The injector will still stick out make sure you have the injector positioned correctly as removing may damage the o rings.

20. Install the hold down screws in their correct locations and use the hold down bolts to press the injector into the cup by alternating between the two bolts ½ turn at a time so you don’t tweak the injector. When you feel resistance get out the inch pound torque wrench Torque the injectors to 70 INCH POUNDS

I prefer to add ¼ turn to any fastener I torque unless I’m told otherwise.
 
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