There is little in the way of scan tools that will talk to it. A dealership may be your only option unless you know someone with Hino DX.
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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There are reportedly others that will work. Read the last ten pages or so, other people have pulled codes with various things.
Hi, l have 1996 Merlin FC air over hydraulic but l can not get the brake lock lever to release as l need to move it a couple of hundred metres away from the house. l have a reasonable understanding of the truck but l don't know the easiest way to disconnect or repair.the hydrualic side is ok but It appears that the vacuum pump is not building up enough pressure.I have limited tools so is there away around or a make shift fix for now. If you or someone could help me i would be so greatful
It should have a mechanical parking brake. Is that correct? The service brakes on the vacuum over hydraulic trucks don't apply when there isn't vacuum. If it's been sitting, you may have parking brake shoes rusted to the drum.
Edit: my phone sucks.
Yes you are right, it has a mechanical tail shaft park brake that does release.If the brakes are rusted to the drums do l just back them off to get them loose? Can l spray them with brake cleaner or do l need to remove the drums if i can get them off some how? Thank you for your answer
Hit it with a hammer. Hard.
Please need answer I have ud Nissan 2006 model 2000 was having pad turbo we install new one in the truck but check engine light still one we take it to the dealer to get it checked he take off the check engine light after we drive it out check engine comes on again we have to leave it at the dealer
What codes did the dealer find? Because otherwise id have to communicate with the truck telepathically.
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Hit the drum with a hammer. Hard. With the brakes released. If that doesn't do it, hit the shoes with a long punch and a hammer. You just need them to break free. After you move it, don't set the brake. Chock the tires instead.
I did as you said with great success, the brakes became free and the truck has now been moved from the house. Hoping l dont come across to many more problems but that's just wishful thinking its a truck. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me, you have been a great help.
This is one of those rare occasions when beating something with a hammer actually fixes it.
Hello i have been reading your thread and it has been helpfull i own a 2008 UD 2600 with a J08E engine with 300k on the speedo so i guess is the same spec engine as the hino 268 2008
Ive had issues with the EGR Cooler the first cooler got clogged and the flanged craked now i am replacing the 2nd one because one of the tubes was already getting clogged i also did some maintenance on it i cleaned the DPF filter for the second time
Also found a small leak on the intercooler while doing this i checked the intake manifold and it was clogged with carbon what can be the cause ?
Ive had issues with the EGR Cooler the first cooler got clogged and the flanged craked now i am replacing the 2nd one because one of the tubes was already getting clogged i also did some maintenance on it i cleaned the DPF filter for the second time
Also found a small leak on the intercooler while doing this i checked the intake manifold and it was clogged with carbon what can be the cause ?
Is there excessive oil coming from turbo? Some is normal, dripping out is not. It may be from crankcase breather or air compressor.
Have your injectors evaluated. This can cause excessive soot.
Evaluate/modify ITV.
Do you have to add coolant often? If there's a leak and coolant is low the effect cooler can crack inside.
Cracks in intercooler are common. If its a hairline crack, ignore it. If air is rushing out, replace it.
Id reply in more detail but I blew out my back and the drugs are kicking in.
Off to la la land. Im out.
Hello thank you for your response yeah i modified the ITV i checked the intercooler and where the air leaks there was oil build up and the turbo oulet hoses do have some oil the other weird thing is that when the truck needs the regen there's no ligth on the cluster it would normally start doing it when you stop the exhaust brake comes on and i press the regen button and starts doing it ,the injectores where replaced twice by the dealer when the truck was still under warranty.
There is a picture on how the intake came out the holes on the intake side of the head we're really bad with carbon build up.
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Overfilling the reservoir, huh? Might want to do a combustion gas test. I swear that soot thing is not that unusual, but yours does seem excessive. I'd try to figure out the source of the oil into the turbo (crankcase, air compressor, or the turbo itself) and address it. Have the exhaust brake setting checked. A crankcase breather filter can be added, you need filter and the cap off of an 11-up Hino conventional. it sticks up about 2" higher, make sure there's clearance when lowering your cab.
On the Hinos, if it's doing a driving regen and you stop moving, you'll have a warning pop up saying that a regen is occuring. That just means not to park in tall grass, not that a manual regen is required. Start moving again and that warning should disappear. I don't know the specific behavior of the Hino-powered UDs, whether or not the exact things happen.
Any software updates will have to happen at UD.
Improved injectors with enhanced antiwear coatings inside them were not offered to UD. Hino injectors can be installed, but the cal codes cannot be entered. They seem to run just fine regardless. The unimproved injectors were pretty crappy. Do yo hear it nailing when it's cold/hot/undervarying loads? Does it ever roll coal?
On the Hinos, if it's doing a driving regen and you stop moving, you'll have a warning pop up saying that a regen is occuring. That just means not to park in tall grass, not that a manual regen is required. Start moving again and that warning should disappear. I don't know the specific behavior of the Hino-powered UDs, whether or not the exact things happen.
Any software updates will have to happen at UD.
Improved injectors with enhanced antiwear coatings inside them were not offered to UD. Hino injectors can be installed, but the cal codes cannot be entered. They seem to run just fine regardless. The unimproved injectors were pretty crappy. Do yo hear it nailing when it's cold/hot/undervarying loads? Does it ever roll coal?
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