Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[grape grower]

Last time we talked, your engine blew up. What's the story?

Id pull the blower switch out and see if the contacts are melted.

The motor was replaced under warrenty, thank the lord, truck came with warrenty and I had 2 months left.

I took the blower switch out and flushed it with electrical contact cleaner, tried to pop the back of the switch off but got worried about breaking the plastic housing. I will get it out again and open it up. I thought I could remove the fan motor and give it the smell test but you are right, it has to be unbolted from the firewall side, trying to figure out how to get to the bolts without removing the air filter and the heater/air conditioner outside air intake. I unplugged the fan motor and connected a 12 volt battery (pickup battery with a good charge) fan ran for a few seconds and then stopped? I will get it out today and check it out. Is it possible to open the blower switch without breaking the housing? If the condenser pressure is low will the heater run as normal? i.e.: will fan motor run? The air conditioner has a 5 amp fuse (passenger /right side dash board) are there any other fuses in the system that i'm not locating? or fusible link (driver side-rear side of battery box and air tanks)? When the driver told me about airconditioner or heater not working I found a wet/ oily looking area on the front side of the condenser? Looks like a piece of gravel may have hit the condenser, after the truck sat for a while the spot was dry and no oily look or feel?
I appreciate your help, Thank You

 

[greasytshirt]

The motor was replaced under warrenty, thank the lord, truck came with warrenty and I had 2 months left.

I took the blower switch out and flushed it with electrical contact cleaner, tried to pop the back of the switch off but got worried about breaking the plastic housing. I will get it out again and open it up. I thought I could remove the fan motor and give it the smell test but you are right, it has to be unbolted from the firewall side, trying to figure out how to get to the bolts without removing the air filter and the heater/air conditioner outside air intake. I unplugged the fan motor and connected a 12 volt battery (pickup battery with a good charge) fan ran for a few seconds and then stopped? I will get it out today and check it out. Is it possible to open the blower switch without breaking the housing? If the condenser pressure is low will the heater run as normal? i.e.: will fan motor run? The air conditioner has a 5 amp fuse (passenger /right side dash board) are there any other fuses in the system that i'm not locating? or fusible link (driver side-rear side of battery box and air tanks)? When the driver told me about airconditioner or heater not working I found a wet/ oily looking area on the front side of the condenser? Looks like a piece of gravel may have hit the condenser, after the truck sat for a while the spot was dry and no oily look or feel?
I appreciate your help, Thank You

The blower motor has failed, and it burned up the switch. It probably also melted the connector body and a few terminals. Switch, motor, body, terminals must be replaced. Yank the air filter off, its easier with it out of the way. The hvac air intake does not need to be removed, just find the 4 nuts on the firewall.
The oil on the condenser may be from the intercooler. It has a tendency to crack in the corners and blow oil on the condenser. Dont worry about the intercooler until it starts blowing enough crud on the radiator to block fins. Congrats on the new engine!

 

[greasytshirt]

The motor was replaced under warrenty, thank the lord, truck came with warrenty and I had 2 months left.

Is any of this other stuff under warranty? Even though a cracked intercooler (if that's what's cracked) won't cause you many issues (if it's a minor crack), it's expensive. It'd be nice if that were covered.

Even if the condenser was punctured, the blower motor would be unaffected. You've got to get that stuff squared away first because the ac compressor will not turn on without a functioning blower switch. This sounds like a classic case of blower motor death which causes switch and connector failure.

The three have a suicide pact.

If you fix it and it only runs on high speed, suspect the blower motor resistor. It usually survives though. Don't go for that first. In the case of these trucks, it's usually a waste of time.

 

[grape grower]

Put the new fan motor and switch in last night, works perfect at all speeds. Did not find any burnt wires or connectors. Air-conditioner seems to be working as well.
Ran out of time with the Warrenty, im not complaining, we are on our own now.
Good call on the air filter, 3/8 battery impact and a blade screwdriver and it was off. I also removed the right front
inner fender, gave me lots of room.
Thanks again for all the help.

 

[greasytshirt]

Thanks again for all the help.

I'm happy you're getting her sorted out.

 

[greasytshirt]

Fixing Hino hoods.

http://i.imgur.com/g4cIO3A.jpg

The light colored area is where the original fiberglass broke out and was lost. This is after two layers. Another three or four went on after this pic was taken. New body shop guy fixed fiberglass boats for the Navy.

 

[Fiskone]

Anyone has a Hino 268 2005 to 2010 for sale.? Need it for parts or maybe a complete running truck?

 

[greasytshirt]

Another: http://i.imgur.com/I0uhCAO.jpg.

He put on several more layers after this pic was taken, reinforcing a wide area. Pretty impressive work, but it took him forever. Idk if he's just slow or if it just takes that long to do. But he appears to be a perfectionist. A quality I admire, but this took 3-4 days. I'll reserve judgement on his efficiency, but the quality is inarguable.

If your 05-10 Hino hood has cracked or if you're worried about it (you should be), make sure the hood dampener cylinder exists and functions correctly. The hoods crack when the dampener fails or is missing, and the hood is allowed to fall open too many times. The hinge area fiberglass is not substantial enough to take it. Id even consider making a custom mount to add a second dampener to the other side.

 

[coalminer]

Anyone has a Hino 268 2005 to 2010 for sale.? Need it for parts or maybe a complete running truck?

What kind of parts are you looking for?

 

[greasytshirt]

Anyone has a Hino 268 2005 to 2010 for sale.? Need it for parts or maybe a complete running truck?

What are you looking for exactly?

 

[jmak]

Hi i have a 2008 Hino 258 its trowing a p0087 i have change the fuel filter and the scv valve already and still same thing truck has 378000 miles my buddy has a 100 of these j08e engines in his ud's and hino's and he has never changed a high pressure pump don't wanna throw a pump at it the only thing i haven't done is check the fuel lines for kinks collapsing or blockage. it also has a funny noise when driving like a grinding vibrating noise it seems like i can drive through it if i step down on pedal i thought it was the turbo or the flex-plate ? my experience is im a ase certified master tech for auto and also cert in med and heavy trucks not that means anything i work on a lot of internationals just need little help on this one any advice would be appreciated
thank you

 

[jmak]

Sorry bout that i just found this forum and joined today posted a question and then did a search and i don't like repeating myself as im sure you don't either so im going to check lines elbows banjo fittings water separator and tanks for debris ill try the 5 gallon can fuel system to but im still stumped on the grinding vibrating noise ? any ideas trans fluid is clean no metal and shifts good it has Allison 2200 rds in it any help will be appreciated

 

[greasytshirt]

i don't like repeating myself as im sure you don't either

Edit: I didn't see your first post. Oops. Hold on a minute.

That hasn't stopped anyone else, haha. Yes, common problem there. If you dig deep enough, you'll find debris where it is hindering fuel flow.

Edit: Don't forget to check the 90 degree supply fitting coming out of the tank. Believe it or not, stuff stacks up in this one too.

but im still stumped on the grinding vibrating noise ? any ideas trans fluid is clean no metal and shifts good it has Allison 2200 rds in it any help will be appreciated

What's the model and year?

A grinding, vibrating noise, huh? How's your truck configured? Box truck, rollback, flatbed, kill dozer? Any PTOs? PTOs can rattle and make a ruckus. The serpentine belt tensioner can also make some noise, from a whirling sound to an awful screech.
Does it do it all the time while the engine is running? At certain road speeds? Need more detail.

On some early 05, maybe 06 trucks, there was an occasional problem with the air compressor/fuel pump drive gear's retaining bolt backing off. If some poking around reveals noise in this area, you need to shut it down (right now!) and remove the injection pump, air compressor, and the plate attached to the bellhousing. The gear and retaining bolt in question are on this plate. There are timing marks, but you don't actually have to put it back together in time for it to run correctly. There's some argument that the dynamic balance of the engine is affected with the air compressor out of time, but it's never something that anyone has ever complained about. This is assuming your truck even has an air compressor. 05-07 hydraulic brake trucks didn't have them.

 

[greasytshirt]

he has never changed a high pressure pump don't wanna throw a pump at it

They do fail. More often than not, they just quit and never restart, and make almost no fuel pressure at all. If it runs at all, it's probably a fuel restriction causing P0087. Very, very common.

it also has a funny noise when driving like a grinding vibrating noise it seems like i can drive through it if i step down on pedal i thought it was the turbo or the flex-plate ? my experience is im a ase certified master tech for auto and also cert in med and heavy trucks not that means anything i work on a lot of internationals just need little help on this one any advice would be appreciated

Everything in International's current lineup pisses me off. That Terrastar, that's one ugly truck. Looks almost as ugly as a 2005 Hino with a white grille (what were they thinking?!) If you look closely at one, the turn signal lights look almost identical to those on a Toyota Tacoma (they even say Toyota on them).

Driveshafts in phase? Hanger bearings still intact? 4-banger models with the Aisin are famous for breaking flexplates (wiping out the pump bushing and torque converter in the process), but the Allisons don't do it. Now, there have been a couple of different flywheel/flexplate combinations over the years, and if someone has been in it before and left something loose, then there's no telling.

The turbos do fail, and they are sometimes accompanied by a whirring noise. Take the inlet tubes off and grab the turbo shaft. What I've seen is when the turbos are getting ready to die, they will spin freely until you put a slight side pressure on the shaft, and it seems to seize up for a moment. The compressor and impeller wheels aren't hitting the housing, it's just the worn bushings doing this. Spin it for a bit then give it a nudge to the side. If it does it, you'll know. Worn turbos are often an elusive cause of regen problems in 08-10 trucks, so consider that a reason to be somewhat critical of turbo condition.

Have any regen problems on these? I love figuring these out.

You don't have Hino DX software, do you? There's definitely a learning curve, but it makes some of this stuff much, much easier to sort out.

 

[jmak]

its a 08 258 rollback tow truck it does have an air compressor hyd brakes yes i have hino dx software yeah its not a common noise ive heard before like the whirring noise of the bad turbo just didnt know if these turbos made a different noise then others i guess rods mains wrist pins turbos all pretty much the same noise they always make so really the noise im hearing is not common to me its not a driveline noise it sounds like it is coming from the bellhousing area doesnt make the noise when parked in neutral or in gear or if i power brake it or free rev it just going down the road under a load thats why i was thinking cracked flexplate i would think that with it making that much noise there would be some metal in trans if it was in the trans ill wipe my finger on the flexplate tomorrow and see if there is any signs of metalflake or metaldust

 

[greasytshirt]

its a 08 258 rollback tow truck it does have an air compressor hyd brakes yes i have hino dx software yeah its not a common noise ive heard before like the whirring noise of the bad turbo just didnt know if these turbos made a different noise then others i guess rods mains wrist pins turbos all pretty much the same noise they always make so really the noise im hearing is not common to me its not a driveline noise it sounds like it is coming from the bellhousing area doesnt make the noise when parked in neutral or in gear or if i power brake it or free rev it just going down the road under a load thats why i was thinking cracked flexplate i would think that with it making that much noise there would be some metal in trans if it was in the trans ill wipe my finger on the flexplate tomorrow and see if there is any signs of metalflake or metaldust

Most of the cracked flexplates I've come across sound like a main bearing knock.
If it only does it going down the road under a load, then I think that it's worth looking over the driveline again. Does the noise show up again under coast, going downhill?

 

[jmak]

Also I did pull the intake off and clean everything it was clogged solid almost blocked off intake ports what a freaking mess but I used a needle scaler and that stuff came right off bought each cyl up to TDC and cleaned all carbon out of ports with air blower and needle scaler good solid hour of cleaning

 

[jmak]

Also I did pull the intake off and clean everything it was clogged solid almost blocked off intake ports what a freaking mess but I used a needle scaler and that stuff came right off bought each cyl up to TDC and cleaned all carbon out of ports with air blower and needle scaler good solid hour of cleaning

Most of the cracked flexplates I've come across sound like a main bearing knock.
If it only does it going down the road under a load, then I think that it's worth looking over the driveline again. Does the noise show up again under coast, going downhill?

Most of the cracked flexplates I've come across sound like a main bearing knock.
If it only does it going down the road under a load, then I think that it's worth looking over the driveline again. Does the noise show up again under coast, going downhill?

No definitely not a driveline noise it's either back of engine or front of trans maybe even lockup plate in converter I'll use my allison program to see if it happens when lock up comes in I appreciate you're help it's good to talk to someone that has a clue

 

[greasytshirt]

Also I did pull the intake off and clean everything it was clogged solid almost blocked off intake ports what a freaking mess but I used a needle scaler and that stuff came right off bought each cyl up to TDC and cleaned all carbon out of ports with air blower and needle scaler good solid hour of cleaning

All Hino turbos pass a little oil through them. But this one sounds excessive. The oil mixes with egr gases and this junk is what you end up with. The crankcase breather can be upgraded with a cap and filter from a newer 11-16 conventional. It will help condense the oil droplets from crankcase gases and keep them out of the intake. I'd definitely take a look at the turbo.

The power steering pump is back in the bellhousing area too. I haven't seen one fail yet, but if you're back there inspecting things, you might want to check it out.

 

[jmak]

Well emptied fuel tank there is some in there not much though I found a chunk in one of the elbows the separator had some stuff in the bottom of it removed the hose and line blew them out seem to be free flowing the little filter in the banjo fitting in the pump was spotless I blew the suction and return line out on tank when I pulled the intake elbow off it had some in it and I just cleaned it the pipe from the egr cooler to t body I removed that and had some antifreeze in it and laying in bottom of egr cooler so I guess I'm going to be replacing that to so I'm going to isolate the fuel system tomorrow and drive it and see what happens