Changing Oil Change Practices

[ATeam]

I am giving serious thought to extending my oil change intervals to 25,000 miles from 15,000 (Volvo, VE-12 engine, straight truck).

What leads me to do so is the improved oil (API CJ-4) that is now coming to market in response to the new 2007 engines that are also coming to market. See oil company web sites and literature for details.

Assuming the CJ-4 oil performance claims can believed, other items that lead me toward extended oil change intervals are:

1. The owner's manual says a 25,000 mile interval is OK in light-duty applications and if high-quality oil and filters are used.

2. The truck is equipped with two full-flow oil filters and one bypass oil filter.

3. Oil capacity is 39 quarts.

4. The 12-liter, 435 HP engine is capable of pushing 80,000 lbs trucks. In our case, 40,000 lbs is the most the engine would be exposed to (34,000 lbs curb weight, 5,000 freight on a CR-Unit).

5. We seldom cold-start the engine more than once a day. The truck is properly warmed up before moving it after a cold start.

6. We almost never idle. The truck is generator-equipped.

7. We almost always run the truck for 3 to 5 minutes to equalize internal engine temps before shutting it off.

8. Most of our miles are easy highway miles.

9. The truck is continuously used. It rarely sits still for more than a day or two. Once or twice a year, it might sit still for a week.

I know there are a lot of drivers who are near-religious about changing their oil sooner than the recommended intervals. I don't view oil changes as an item of faith. If the facts support extended oil change intervals, I'm inclined to go that way.

What other facts should be considered in an extended oil change decision?

[greg334]

1 – The use of fossil oil, synthetic blend or pure synthetic

2 - What the Oil Analysis (OA) says – every 10K is a good start but 15K if you use the 30K oil change life cycle.

3 - The use of oil additives, Lucas, etc..and what the TBN (total base number) is on the OA.

What I don’t agree with is the idea that a 10K oil change is an absolute need. The thought of wasting gallons of oil because of a need without evidence that something is really needed seems a little overboard. I mean that a good OA with base lines and consistent use of the same oil is very important to the life of the engine.

Now my truck has a 35K (yes 35K) oil change life cycle at this point. I am using Mobile One full synthetic oil (the entire truck uses all synthetic), not blended synthetic and I have an OA done when after I bought the truck, another one with the my oil change and will have one done in a little bit with a TBN.

[ATeam]

Good points. Thank you, Greg.

[Streakn1]

20,000-25,000 mile intervals between oil changes has worked well for us on our Catapillar C-10 engine. We have a bypass filter system also. This has been the regiment since this truck was new and the engine is still tight at 651,000 miles. One change I've recently added is to replace the primary oil filter at the halfway point for added protection as the engine ages. Its alot cheaper than a full oil change.

Do consider a chassis lube in between oil changes.;)

[Broompilot]

I just posted what I found out from Speedco. After almost 15K the oil was not even showing any wear or breakdown. And this is on a small ISC running much higher RPMs than you would at the same speeds.

Does your APU not keep the Engine coolant warm for a nice warm Engine start up? If not by coolant flowing thru than why not your block heater? Even though we are all basically babying these engines if you run an APU they will eventually wear out.

Now this is gona be very hard for those Canadian Members to understand. I have a pretty good friend that I meet on this site talk at least once a week, he bought a brand new Volvo 770 or 880 last Spring. Yeah I have some Canadian friends who tip me off on whats wrong with things up there vs down here so if you wonder where I get my info from wonder no more....

Anyway Phil, he changes his oil every 25K and any sooner he feels is a total waist of $. Between his reccomendation and what I discovered on Saturday he is correct. He is pulling between 60 and 80Klbs vs your 40 so your probably gona be safe, very safe.

[ATeam]

No, my generator does not warm engine coolant. It is an Onan 7,500 watt generator that produces electricity only. The truck is equipped with a headbolt heater and oil pan heater too. It also has a preheater to aid winter starting. With the generator running, I can flip a switch in the sleeper and warm engine coolant and oil.

By cold start, I did not mean cold as in winter temperature cold. I meant a start of an engine that has been sitting long enough for the oil to drain down the cyinder sides. Perhaps I should have said dry start.

The winter starting aids are a plus in that they help oil flow better in cold temps. The preheater reduces the number of engine revolutions it takes to start the thing in winter cold. That gets the oil flowing sooner, which is an engine wear issue more than something that will increase or decrease the oil change interval.

Running team as we do, and staying busy too, we sometimes go several days before we'll do a dry start.

[LDB]

There is no reason to change the oil at any specific mileage. It should be changed at an interval determined appropriate by oil analysis. As long as the oil is still doing it's job why change it? I'd go for the extended intervals also as long as the analysis supported it.

Leo Bricker, 73's K5LDB, OOIDA Life Member 677319
Owner, Panther trucks 5508, 5509, 5641
Highway Watch Participant, Truckerbuddy
EO Forum Moderator
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Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.

[greg334]

I agree with you Leo but many people do not get the TBN added to the analysis and this leave them with a real lack of info. The TBN simply give the level of additives left (the real additives in the oil not Lucas or STP). I found that there are products that could be added to the oil to add to the depleted additives.

I would also say the new Oil Sensors that are being marketed does a lot to tell the condition of the oil in the pan.

[Broompilot]

I knew I spelled that wrong, analysis but how you gona do one with out draining the oil?

[greg334]

>I knew I spelled that wrong, analysis but how you gona do
>one with out draining the oil?

I have a lot of problems spelling it right, even with spell check. And now my keyboard is wearing out, my typos are getting worst.

Ok there is a vacuum unit that you use to pull oil out of the pan through the dip stick tube and fill the bottle. I ordered one to give back the one I borrowed and hope it works as well as the one I am giving back.

[OntarioVanMan]

Although I have a baby diesel compared to you guys 2005 Sprinter 2.7L V5
It comes with not an oil pump now but what they call an oil quality sensor. When reset it counts backwards from 10,000 to 0. Depending on how we run and driving conditions I've done close to 28,000 miles before it reaches 0. For only 10 quarts of Mobile 1 fully synthetic an oil analysis
would not be cost effective. I do my own changes. And record the mileage.
The dealer said however regardless if you have 100,000 miles they want to see 10 changes for warranty purposes if something should go wrong. So during warranty I stuck to thier plan, but now warranty is gone I can do my own schedule.

[RichM]

I would think the most important guideline while the engine is still under warranty is to follow the engine maker guidelines. If they say change oil at 10,000 best to do it as if a major problem occurs and you have not followed their guidelines you may be left hanging with no waranty recourse.

[Broompilot]

The voice of Expierence, thanks Rich.

[ATeam]

It takes no experience whatsoever to read the owner's manual and follow the directions to protect the warranty on a new truck. Developing a good preventative maintenance schedule is something that can be done before the newest of the new even buys a truck. This is a case where the value of reasearch and experience are the same.

[jeffman164]

Two questions please:
What is a ISC ? And - What is beneficial about having the engine coolant warm as opposed to having a block heater to warm the oil during cold starts. Seems to me the most important part is to have the oil warm so not as much wear to engine when cold.