Well, the cart is officially ahead of the horse!

**Weave** · 03-01-2004, 12:25 AM

When I get back early next week, I'll crawl under my truck and measure and photograph the driveshaft setup for the 320" WB.
I'm not sure how fellows set these things up and align them all, it will likely be one of the more complex parts of the stretch. I think the main idea of the setup on mine was to keep the shafts up high until the very last one, to keep water and salt, etc out of the U-joints. It has worked flawlessly thus far. If your tractor has the AirLiner rear spring setup, it will work perfectly for the straight truck.
Definitely take your time with the job, we certainly won't rush you :) When you do the wiring for the box and rear lighting, be sure it is done by someone who specializes in that. Mine was done by a donkey, and had to be all re-done due to corrosion getting into the vast array of cheap connectors they used that were not weather tight. Same deal with the brake and air ride lines- many of them rubbed the frame rails and developed leaks, and had to be replaced and re-routed properly.
When I re-did the wiring (did this myself) I came up with a plan that segregates the running lights (the wires that burn up the most) from the rest of the system, and there are only three connections to all the running lights from the cab. When you start running and get into the "salt belt," you'll understand how important keeping the wiring weather tight is.
Enough rambling :D I know a lot of fellows and have a lot of resources for your questions as you go along for the things I don't have a clue about myself, and hopefully we can help you out if you get into a jam with your "Monster Garage" project!
-Weave-

I joke around saying my truck with the full factory double frame will become a sleeper-cab garbage truck when it's expediting days end:D

guest · 03-01-2004, 03:34 PM

Well...there is an update already...at least it looks like there will be. I talked to a guy here today that builds a lot of super heavy duty demolition grade dump trailers. He's never been known to "underbuild" anything. When we talked about the double frame, and the stretch, he didn't agree. He is too busy to do my truck, but told me that he has stretched a lot of dump trucks and he never even double frames them. He says that a good weld will hold. I am not going to do take that chance, but he also mentioned that to cap the frame as were my intentions would add another frame thickness to each side of the frame, thus causing the suspension brackets to move that far also. It is doubtful that they could be moved on the axle which mean that would create a bind. I think the folks at Davis Truck Body may have only double framed to the point where the rear suspension fastens to the frame. That would work.

Since talking to this guy, I am now considering doubling the frame from the front of the suspension to the rear of the sleeper or maybe to where the fuel tanks bolt on. I feel that would be sufficient.

Weave, I realize you may not agree with this. I'm not completely sure myself, but I do know that I've seen trucks that were subject to a lot more weight and abuse than what I expect from an expedite truck and they held with even less reinforcement than what I would be doing with this plan.

The other thing he told me to do was to instead of buying the C shaped frame channel to use an L shaped reinforcement. This would definitely be easier, but I'm not sure yet about that one. I have some more research to do and I'll be talking to some more folks in the near future.

I also found out todday that I might be able to get hooked up with guy here who stretches a lot of the big heavy duty wreckers. There is a truck lot down here that sells them, and this guys does all of their stretches. He should be good. A friend knows him and he's gonna see if he can get in touch with him sometime this week. Even if doesn't want the work, he should be able to give me some good advice.

Weave, point taken on the wiring. I had actually read in another thread somewhere where you had talked of the wiring issues up north. I had in mind to get the stretch completed and before mounting the box, bring the truck out to the house and going over the wiring myself. I think that with some tips and help from you guys, I can probably do as good on this myself. I don't know of anyone here that I would trust to understand the corrosion issue that you speak of since it's not as big of a problem here.

Sorry for writing books every time I get on here folks...lol

Thx for the input,

**davekc** · 03-01-2004, 06:52 PM

For what it is worth on wiring. Never use those blue plastic connectors. Waste of effort and money. Our truck had a couple of those and had to replace them. I would go with sealed harnesses and led lights. If you have to make a connection, I had my connections soldered and heat shrinking connectors put on. Salt and all those chemicals will trash your electrical system if you start cutting corners.
Before I forget, you can use rubberized spray for other connectors to keep salt from intruding into the back of them.

guest · 03-05-2004, 11:33 PM

Ok...here's an update. As much as I have anyway. I have talked to the guy here who builds the wreckers. Turns out that he sends his trucks out to have them stretched. He gave me the guys name and told me that he charges about $6k to stretch the wreckers to 320" wheelbase. He uses all new frame materials and all new drive line and double frames them. I failed to ask how far he double frames, but I can ask the other guy. I'm hoping to find a cheaper route, but we'll see. This same guy told me that I could get it done for half the price if I wanted to go to the trouble of coming up with my own piece of frame like I had mentioned and do some of the leg work, etc. myself. As I was calling looking for boxes, I talked to a salvage yard here and he knew of a guy who had a used box...ended up being the same guy that does the frame stretches...lol.. I haven't been able to contact him yet, but I'll keep trying.

Weave, I've got one for ya now!..lol. My guess is that the sleeper on your truck is similiar to mine. You can raise the bottom bunk in my sleeper with the flip of a latch. Below is an open space in the center and then the side compartments on each side. As soon as I saw that, I remembered the one thing that I told my friends that I would love to have in a truck. A recliner! :) I can use the upper bunk to sleep in and, with very little modification, have a good sized spot there on the floor of the sleeper to put a recliner. I could put shelves r whatever on each side of it and have a pretty nice set-up. Admittedly, sleeping in the upper bunk may be a sacrifice, but I'd be willing to make it for a good place to sit back and relax. What do you think?

How's that for a busy mind??..lol

**Weave** · 03-07-2004, 12:52 AM

You have the condo sleeper, which has a lot more room in it than my midroof. Mine doesn't even have bunks, just one bed for a single driver. I can lift the bed-mattress area up to reveal the sleeper HVAC and there is some storage under it. That along with a Norcold fridge and a couple of small cabinets are all my sleeper has, but it's just fine for my needs, and is actually great because I am only 5'9" and can stand up throughout the whole cab and sleeper. If I were any taller, forget it. My truck sat for sale at Crook for almost a year due to the fact nobody wanted something like it without the condo for team operations. Had it been a condo sleeper it would have sold in a second.
You have a lot more options with the condo. You could do the recliner thing, and maybe a small desk and shelves on the floor. It's nice to have some workspace to do paperwork and the such. My sleeper has a little rinky-dink pull out desk, where I can sit on the mattress to do paperwork. Crude, but better than nothing:)
The condo sleeper should be a luxury for running solo!
-Weave-

guest · 03-07-2004, 02:40 AM

I agree that the condo gives me some options, but it sure is ugly compared to a mid-roof..lol. I had never thought of the midroof as being a bad thing, but your explanation makes since..but it was very good for you :).

As for the sleeper modifications, I enjoy looking and thinking about what I might do, but that stuff will have to wait for a while. I have basicly the same set up as you as far as the cabinets, etc., I think. Basicly, I think there is just the extra closets on top for the second driver and then a steping pad for climbing into the top bunk. My lower, driver's side cabinet has the same pull-out shelf that you mention. It's practical enough for me. The last guy must have used it, the drawer was full of paperwork :).

I don't especially like the idea of climbing into the top bunk, but I would give up that luxury in a minute to have a recliner to relax in :).

Hope your enjoying your weekend :),

**Weave** · 03-08-2004, 10:10 PM

Sorry I didn't get a chance to snap those photos of the driveline this weekend, but as the story goes the weather in Buffalo went from 75 degrees to 30 and snowing overnight, and I had to attend to a personal matter today. I'll get to it next time the weather breaks.
-Weave-