[tyoung]

i recently bought a new van with a gas engine.i was just wondering how i keep it cool in the summer and warm in the winter ? can i leave a gas engine running and use the a/c and heater on the van without damaging the engine or risking fumes from the engine ? i insulated and paneled the bunk area and have an inverter installed. i have a small ceramic heater.will that work without killing the battery if it isn't running ? i know this is alot of questions at once,but i would greatly appreciate your help in these matters!

[terryandrene]

My next new van will have an Espar heater which is advertised elsewhere on EO. At about $1300 installed, it's a good value for the money and an efficient way to heat the van with a unit about the size of two cartons of cigarettes.

I keep cool with a FanTastic fan at about $220, you install. Thermostatically controlled, it keeps the air moving and we sleep comfortably in our well insulated van.

You should get a Carbon Monoxide detecter at Home Depot, Lowes et el, not only for your fumes but for the others that are idleing and sharing their fumes and gases with you. I almost woke up dead once so I think the $40 is money well spent.

I have a 534,000 mile gas van that I have idled many hours at a time in its five year life. The engine still runs tight and only burns 1/2 quart every 5000 miles at which time I change the oil.

I think you should consider one or two deep cycle batteries, isolated from your starting battery. You'll be able to then use all your aux eqpt like Qualcomm, TV, DVD player, computer, work/reading lights without fear of not starting in the morning.

Terry

[teacel]

Terry

Since you brought up the subject about a new van, have you thought about what type (make) the van will be?

When it's time to replace your van, have you put any thought into size and comfort?

I ask because, you as well as I aren't getting any younger! and I think about comfort all the time now that I'm one of the 'over the hill gang'.

[RichM]

Tony You have a long way to go to catch up with Terry.:P :P :P

[tyoung]

thank you terry.i already had thoughts about a carbon monoxide detector and a deep cycle battery.

[LDB]

>I almost woke up dead once
>
>Terry

Not to take anything away from the seriousness of CO and the wisdom of having a CO detector in the truck but I couldn't help smiling when I read that and wondering if you are related to Yogi Berra.

To go along with the deep cycle batteries isn't there some sort of monitoring device or circuit that will shut down what's on them if they drain too low? I know there's something that plugs into the lighter socket or somehow monitors when using the regular starting battery and sounds an alarm when it's at the point you shouldn't drain it anymore.

M A Webster on the forum here has a nice setup on his van with a small gasoline generator and a window unit a/c mounted above the rear doors in a raised roof. He's also set up for satellite tv and appears to have most of the comforts of home. You might want to talk to him about setup options.

Another one to talk to is dieseldoctor. His van could practically be the next lunar exploration vehicle with all the systems he's set up. It's amazing and if I ever switch to vans I'm going to try to hire him to outfit mine.

Good luck to you.

Leo Bricker, owner trucks 3034, 4958
OOIDA 677319
73's K5LDB
Highway Watch Participant, Truckerbuddy
EO Forum Moderator 1+ Years of Service
-----
Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.

[terryandrene]

I've had 2 Ford Diesel E-350 and 2 Chev gas, 1 1500 and 1 3500. My next one will be a Chev/GMC gas 3500. The Fords were great truck-like vehicles, but the maintenance costs far exceeded that of the gas Chevys. The Chevys drive more auto-like, but the comfort of the seats are about the same. My first Chev, a 1500 conversion van, had plush seats that were great but not very durable considering we slide in and out more than Mom and Pop in their conversion vans.

As far as the sleeping area, any of the vans can be as comfortable as the next depending on the set-up chosen by the owner, and properly done, the freight capacity in any van is sufficient for ANY B load.


Terry

[Lawrence]

I know Ray Lawrence at Espar of Michigan can install the Espar Heater and an isolated battery system.

Visit him here: http://www.esparofmichigan.com/

Lawrence,
Expediters Online.com


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[tyoung]

does anybody know what type of isolator i need ? i have a 2006 chevy express 3500.i am seeing prices from $20-$100.

[geo]

something else to look at solar panel's that will charge battery
i have one that used to sit on the top of c unit to keep battery charge when using the clink when layover
any marine discount boater's has many different sizes and some come in mag so they won't side off the van or truck when you for get to back em up

[Moot]

tyoung, go to www.hellroaring.com sorry I don't know how to add a link. Their web site list several products for a variety of applications. If you have any questions E-mail them for a same day response. Give them vehicle info and number of deep cycle batteries and any other info. They will recommend the best product for that application. I bought a BIC___ don't remember the number for my 1998 Chev. Switched it over to my 2004. They are definitely not cheap compared to J.C. Whitney and others. But I am a satisfied customer. Via E-mail I was helped with insallation. They make their own products. Located in the mountains of Montana puts them in the mountain time zone so adjust accordingly for replies.

[terryandrene]

I use a continuous duty solenoid that the Carquest catalog lists as being preferable for use in isolating auxiliary batteries in an r/v. I don't rember the stock number but it cost $34. I use #6 welder cable from each of the pos and neg terminals of the starter battery. This cable is very flexible and easily fed from the engine compatment and beneath the van to the cargo area. I run another wire from the elec window/doorlock circuit to open /close the solenoid.

[Moot]

Terry, I have heard of others using a solenoid and I still don't understand exactly how it works. The wire from your electric window circuit, is that for a switch to open and close the solenoid? If so do you turn this on and off to recharge the deep cycle? What brand of deep cycle do you use. What is average life span. Any problem with over-charging? With the solenoid closed does the auxiliary aid the primary battery when starting? A solenoid is certainly cheaper than the isolator I have. Also how many deep cycles do you run. I have 1 to run lights, fantastic fan and small cooler. The cooler runs constantly, no thermostat, so I unplug it when running the fan at night.

[terryandrene]

Moot:

In lay terms, the solenoid has two terminals, one for the pos. from the starter battery in and one for the pos. out. There are two smaller terminals, one to ground and the other to your pos. switch. You can use any circuit that is open only when ignition is on for the pos. switch; I use the power window/door lock circuit. Therefore, when you turn ignition, the solenoid closes and completes the pos. flow from your starter batteries to your auxiliary batteries.

I have two deep cycle batteries in the rear cargo area. I bought them from auto zone because of their warrantee return policy. I connect a fuse block to these aux batteries and run every electrical thing that I have added to the van from the fuse block.